Grandma’s Squash Pie

The market continues its steady climb. I had 3 showings this week and 1 offers. My reputation precedes me now — the Greek agent who tells the truth about roofs and brings food to open houses. Worse reputations exist.

Alexander called from school this week. He is doing well and building a life with the quiet competence of a young man who watched his mother rebuild from nothing and decided that building is what Papadopouloses do. He still does not call Yia-yia enough. He never will.

Mama is 83 and still at the bakery at 4 AM. I do not know how much longer she will do this. I do not ask. You do not ask Voula Papadopoulos about endings. You stand next to her and roll phyllo and trust that the beginning continues as long as the hands are moving.

I made loukoumades — Greek honey puffs, fried golden, drenched in honey and cinnamon. They disappeared in twelve minutes. I served it with bread and olive oil — always too much olive oil, because in this family there is no such thing as too much. We ate and the conversation was easy and the evening was warm.

Sophia told me this week that she is proud of me. I was not expecting it. We were in the car, driving to Tarpon Springs for Sunday dinner, and she said Mom, I am proud of you. I said for what. She said for everything. For the bakery. For the houses. For making dinner every night even when you are tired. I gripped the steering wheel and blinked and said thank you, koritsi mou. She said do not cry. I did not cry. Much.

Loukoumades are Mama’s domain — the frying, the honey, the dusting of cinnamon — but when I am the one in the kitchen and I want to feel her beside me, I make this pie. Grandma’s Squash Pie is what I brought to Sunday dinner the week Sophia said she was proud of me, because it is the kind of recipe that belongs to women who show up before anyone else does and stay after everyone leaves. I cannot explain why squash pie tastes like being known, but it does. Ask any daughter of a baker.

Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 55 min | Total Time: 1 hr 15 min | Servings: 8

Ingredients

1 unbaked 9-inch pie shell
2 cups cooked, mashed butternut or winter squash (about 1 medium squash)
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon salt

Instructions

Preheat the oven. Heat your oven to 375°F. Place the unbaked pie shell in a 9-inch pie dish and crimp the edges; set aside in the refrigerator while you prepare the filling.
Cook the squash. If starting from raw squash, halve it, scoop out the seeds, and roast cut-side down on a baking sheet at 375°F for 35–40 minutes until fork-tender. Scoop out the flesh and mash until smooth. Measure out 2 cups.
Mix the filling. In a large bowl, whisk together the mashed squash, granulated sugar, and brown sugar until combined. Add the beaten eggs, milk, melted butter, and vanilla extract, whisking until smooth. Stir in the cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and salt.
Fill the pie shell. Pour the filling into the chilled pie shell, spreading it evenly with a spatula.
Bake. Bake at 375°F for 50–55 minutes, until the center is just set and a knife inserted 1 inch from the edge comes out clean. The very center may still have a slight jiggle — it will firm as it cools.
Cool completely. Transfer to a wire rack and cool for at least 2 hours before slicing. Serve at room temperature or chilled, with whipped cream if you like.

Nutrition (per serving)

Grandma’s Squash Pie — For the Hands That Never Stop Moving