Father's Day. The sixth one on this blog. I went to Evarts. First time in three months — the pandemic lockdown has eased enough for a visit, and I wasn't going to miss another month. I wore a mask. I brought hand sanitizer. I brought soup beans in a thermos and cornbread in foil and the specific relief of a son who has been separated from his mother for ninety days and is desperate for the porch.
Betty was on the porch. Waiting. She knew I was coming because I called, but she was waiting anyway, the way she waits — sitting in the chair with her Bible and her coffee, facing the road, ready. She looked smaller. Three months of isolation have thinned her further. Her wrists. Her neck. The cheeks that were once round are hollowed now, not from sickness but from loneliness, which is its own kind of malnutrition. You can eat three meals a day and still starve for company.
I hugged her. The first hug since Christmas. I held on the way Clay held on at Fort Campbell, the way Connie held on at the bus, the way Hensleys hold on when the holding is the message and the message is: I'm here and I'm not leaving and I missed you and please don't get smaller. She said "You're squeezing too tight." I said "I know." I didn't let go. She let me not let go.
We went to Earl's grave. The annual Father's Day pilgrimage. The headstone was clean — Dale had been by. I pulled some weeds and sat on the grass and told Earl: "Clay's cooking now, Daddy. He makes soup beans at ninety-two percent. Biscuits at eighty-seven. He's learning your wife's recipes. He's going to be okay." I said "He's going to be okay" to a headstone in the sun, and for the first time since the garage, I believed it. Not hoped. Believed. The difference is the evidence: the biscuits, the beans, the man at the stove with flour on his shirt. The evidence supports the belief. Clay is going to be okay.
Betty made fried chicken. The fried chicken. In her kitchen, with her hands, at eighty years old, barely able to see the thermometer but knowing the oil temperature by the sound of the sizzle. She made it for me because it's Father's Day and because the chicken is love and because love doesn't require twenty-twenty vision. Love requires a skillet and a lifetime of practice and the refusal to stop cooking just because the world went dark.
Betty knew that oil was ready not by any thermometer reading but by the sound—that particular crack and hiss that eighty years in a kitchen teaches you to trust. I can’t replicate her hands or her instincts, but this fried chicken wings recipe is the closest I know how to get: simple, honest, built on technique and repetition, the kind of cooking Clay is learning one batch at a time. Make it on a Sunday, make it for someone you love, and pay attention to the sizzle.
Fried Chicken Wings
Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 25 minutes | Total Time: 40 minutes | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 2 lbs chicken wings, split at the joint, tips removed
- 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1 teaspoon onion powder
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
- 2 eggs
- 1/4 cup whole milk
- Vegetable oil or lard, for frying (enough to fill skillet 2 inches deep)
Instructions
- Dry the wings. Pat chicken wings thoroughly dry with paper towels. This step is essential—moisture is the enemy of a crispy crust.
- Make the dredge. In a shallow bowl, whisk together flour, salt, black pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, and cayenne if using. In a second shallow bowl, beat eggs with milk until combined.
- Coat the wings. Dip each wing into the egg wash, letting excess drip off, then press firmly into the seasoned flour on all sides. Set coated wings on a wire rack and let rest 5 minutes so the coating adheres.
- Heat the oil. Pour oil into a heavy cast-iron skillet to a depth of about 2 inches. Heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 350°F. If you don’t have a thermometer, drop a pinch of flour in—it should sizzle immediately and steadily, not violently. That’s the sound you’re listening for.
- Fry in batches. Carefully lower wings into the hot oil in a single layer, working in batches to avoid crowding. Fry 10–12 minutes, turning once halfway through, until deep golden brown and cooked through (internal temperature of 165°F).
- Drain and rest. Transfer finished wings to a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Do not stack them on paper towels or the bottoms will steam and soften. Let rest 3–5 minutes before serving.
- Season immediately. Sprinkle lightly with salt the moment they come out of the oil. Serve hot.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 480 | Protein: 34g | Fat: 28g | Carbs: 22g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 620mg