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Fried Chicken — Same Cast Iron, Same Philosophy, Same Love

Clay called Sunday. He sounded good. Actually good, not performing-good. He said he's in the top of his class physically — "Football shape is different from Army shape, but football shape is better than couch shape, and most of these guys had couch shape." He said he passed his rifle qualification, which means he can now shoot a weapon accurately, which is information I filed in the part of my brain that I don't visit voluntarily.

He asked about the garden. I told him the tomatoes are fading and the fall planting is coming — garlic, maybe some lettuce, the last round of beans. He said "When I come home, I want to eat everything in the garden. Everything." I said "I'll have it ready." He said "How's Mom?" I said "She's Connie." He laughed. He understood. "She's Connie" means: she's tough, she's holding, she's counting the days, she's putting one foot in front of the other the way she has for twenty-seven years of being married to a man who went into mountains and twenty-seven years of raising children who insist on going into their own.

This week: green tomato recipe. The garden is transitioning from summer to fall and the tomatoes that didn't ripen are sitting on the vine, green and firm and full of potential that the season won't let them reach. Fried green tomatoes. The classic Southern use for unfinished fruit.

Slice green tomatoes about a third of an inch thick. Salt them and let them sit for ten minutes (draws out moisture). Dredge in flour, dip in beaten egg, dredge in cornmeal seasoned with salt, pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. Fry in a cast iron skillet with about half an inch of vegetable oil, three minutes per side until the cornmeal crust is dark golden and crispy. Drain on paper. Eat immediately. The tomato inside is tart, almost lemony, and the cornmeal crust is crunchy and savory and the contrast between the two is the whole point — softness inside strength, tartness inside warmth.

Betty made fried green tomatoes every September when the frost threat arrived and she had to strip the vines of anything unpicked. She'd pick a bushel of green tomatoes and fry them in batches and the whole house smelled like cornmeal and anticipation. "Don't waste the green ones," she'd say. "They're not unripe. They're just different." Different. Not lesser. Not failed. Just different. A green tomato and a ripe tomato came from the same vine. They just met different weather. I think about that. I think about my son meeting different weather than I planned for him, and being not lesser, not failed, just different. A Hensley tomato in Army weather.

The cast iron skillet was already out from the green tomatoes, and honestly, once it’s seasoned and hot, it wants to keep going — that’s the thing about cast iron, it holds onto everything you’ve ever cooked in it. Clay said he wants to eat everything in the garden when he gets home, and I’m going to hold him to that, but the garden alone won’t be enough for a man who’s been running in Army weather. So alongside the tomatoes, I made fried chicken — same skillet, same cornmeal logic, same Southern patience that Betty taught me: don’t rush the oil, don’t crowd the pan, and trust that the heat will do what it needs to do.

Fried Chicken

Prep Time: 20 min (plus 2 hrs marinating) | Cook Time: 35 min | Total Time: 2 hrs 55 min | Servings: 6

Ingredients

  • 3 1/2 lbs bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces (thighs, drumsticks, breasts)
  • 2 cups buttermilk
  • 1 teaspoon hot sauce
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup cornmeal
  • 2 teaspoons salt, divided
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper, divided
  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder
  • 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 2 to 3 cups vegetable oil, for frying

Instructions

  1. Marinate the chicken. In a large bowl, combine buttermilk, hot sauce, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Add chicken pieces, turning to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours, or overnight for best results.
  2. Make the dredge. In a shallow dish, whisk together flour, cornmeal, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, remaining 1 teaspoon black pepper, garlic powder, smoked paprika, and cayenne until evenly combined.
  3. Heat the oil. Pour vegetable oil into a large cast iron skillet to a depth of about 3/4 inch. Heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 350°F, about 8 to 10 minutes. A pinch of flour dropped in should sizzle immediately.
  4. Dredge the chicken. Remove each piece from the buttermilk, letting excess drip off. Press firmly into the flour mixture on all sides, shaking off any loose excess. Set on a wire rack while you coat the remaining pieces.
  5. Fry in batches. Working in batches — do not crowd the pan — place chicken skin-side down in the hot oil. Fry 7 to 9 minutes per side for thighs and drumsticks, 5 to 6 minutes per side for breasts, until the crust is deep golden brown and the internal temperature reaches 165°F. Adjust heat as needed to maintain steady frying without burning.
  6. Drain and rest. Transfer finished pieces to a clean wire rack set over a sheet pan. Do not stack. Let rest 5 minutes before serving so the crust stays crisp.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 530 | Protein: 41g | Fat: 27g | Carbs: 26g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 710mg

Craig Hensley
About the cook who shared this
Craig Hensley
Week 127 of Craig’s 30-year story · Lexington, Kentucky
Craig is a retired coal miner from Harlan County, Kentucky — a man who spent twenty years underground and seventeen hours trapped in a collapsed tunnel before he was twenty-four. He moved his family to Lexington when the mine closed, learned to cook his mama Betty's Appalachian recipes from memory because she never wrote them down, and now he's trying to get them on paper before they're lost. He says "reckon" and "fixing to" and means both. His bourbon-glazed ribs are, according to his wife Connie, "acceptable" — which is the highest praise she gives.

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