Denver got fourteen inches of snow on Tuesday. Fourteen inches of that heavy, wet, January snow that turns the city into a postcard for exactly two hours before it turns into gray slush and regret. School was canceled. Lisa was at the hospital because the ER doesn't close for weather, which means I was home alone with four kids and fourteen inches of snow and a decision to make: be responsible or be fun. I chose fun. We built a snowman in the front yard that was more ice than art. Diego threw snowballs at me with an arm that's going to be useful on a football field someday. Sofia made snow angels with geometric precision. The twins ate snow, which I allowed because picking that battle in a snowstorm is a losing proposition.
By noon everyone was wet, cold, and starving, which is the ideal setup for what I wanted to make anyway: green chile stew. Gloria's recipe. The recipe. Pork shoulder browned in a Dutch oven, then simmered with roasted Hatch green chile, potatoes, onion, garlic, and a little cumin — no tomatoes, because this is New Mexican green chile stew, not chili, and if you put tomatoes in it, Gloria will find out and Gloria will have words. The stew takes about two hours, which is exactly how long it takes four cold children to cycle through baths, dry clothes, a cartoon, and the specific restlessness that means they're about to start climbing the furniture.
I served it in bowls with warm flour tortillas on the side. Diego had two bowls. Sofia had one, carefully, with a spoon. The twins had half a bowl each and most of it ended up on the table, but they ate the potatoes, which counts. I ate mine standing at the counter looking out the window at the snow and the snowman and the mountains in the distance, barely visible through the clouds, and I thought about Las Cruces, where it was probably sixty degrees and clear and my mother was probably making this same stew in the same pot she's used for forty years.
I called Ruben on Thursday. He's between deployments, stateside for a few months, and he sounded good — rested, funny, like the Ruben I grew up with and not the careful, measured version that comes back from overseas. He asked about the kids. I told him Marco ate snow. He laughed and said, "Medina men eat everything." He's not wrong.
Feed your people. The game is won at the table.
Gloria’s green chile stew never came to the table alone — not in Las Cruces, not in this house. There were always refried beans somewhere nearby, warm and creamy in a small bowl or spread across a tortilla, filling in the spaces around the main event and making the whole meal feel like it came from somewhere. On a snow day with four kids and flour tortillas already stacked on the counter, these Easy Refried Beans are the thing I reach for without thinking — the side dish that doesn’t ask much of you and gives back more than it should.
Easy Refried Beans
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 20 minutes | Total Time: 30 minutes | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 2 cans (15 oz each) pinto beans, drained and rinsed
- 3 tablespoons lard, bacon drippings, or neutral oil
- 1/2 medium white onion, finely diced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/2 cup low-sodium chicken broth or water, plus more as needed
Instructions
- Heat the fat. Warm the lard or oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat until shimmering.
- Soften the aromatics. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and just beginning to color at the edges, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook 1 minute more, stirring constantly so it doesn’t burn.
- Add the beans. Pour in the drained and rinsed pinto beans. Stir well to coat with the fat and fold everything together evenly.
- Mash to texture. Using a sturdy potato masher or the back of a large wooden spoon, mash the beans directly in the skillet. Work to your preferred consistency — fully smooth for spreading, or partly chunky if you want texture in the bowl. Either is correct.
- Add liquid and loosen. Pour in the broth a little at a time, stirring between additions, until the beans reach a thick, creamy, just-spreadable consistency. They will tighten as they cool, so pull them off the heat while they still look slightly loose.
- Season and finish. Stir in the cumin, salt, and black pepper. Taste and adjust — add more salt if needed, a splash more broth if they’ve tightened too much.
- Serve warm. Spoon into bowls as a side alongside stew, spread across warm flour tortillas, or use as a base for a plate. Leftovers reheat well with a little splash of water stirred in over low heat.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 185 | Protein: 8g | Fat: 7g | Carbs: 24g | Fiber: 7g | Sodium: 370mg