June. Three months of lockdown. The numbers in New Jersey are slowly — slowly — improving. The curve is flattening. The hospital is still full but less full. Raj is working five days instead of six.
Anaya turns two this week. I baked a cake — chocolate, from scratch, three layers, which is ambitious for someone whose baking experience is limited to cookies and panic. The cake was lopsided. The frosting was uneven. It was the most beautiful cake I've ever made because it was made with intention, with love, with the specific determination of a mother who refuses to let a pandemic steal her daughter's birthday.
The party: me, Raj, Anaya. Three people, one lopsided cake, a living room decorated with streamers I ordered online. We sang "Happy Birthday" — in English, in Tamil (Amma's version, which I learned by hearing it thirty-three times), and in Gujarati (Raj's attempt, which made Anaya laugh because Raj's Gujarati singing is objectively terrible).
FaceTime calls: Amma and Appa first. Amma cried — silently, the way she does — when Anaya blew out the candles. "My baby," she whispered. She wasn't talking about me. She was talking about the two-year-old on the screen who she hasn't held in three months.
Pushpa called next. She'd knitted a new blanket — purple this time. She held it up to the camera. Anaya said, "Pretty!" Pushpa cried too.
Arvind came — outside, in the backyard, six feet away, masked. He brought a gift: a toy kitchen set, bigger than the one from Christmas. Anaya opened it and said, "Anaya cook!" and spent the next hour "cooking" plastic food while the adults sat in lawn chairs and pretended the distance between them was normal.
I made Amma's payasam for the birthday. The vermicelli version. Golden, sweet, the taste of every celebration. I made it alone, in my kitchen, without Amma beside me, following her recipe from the leather journal, tasting and adjusting the way she would.
It was close. Not exact. Close.
Happy birthday, Anaya Patel. Two years old. Born in a normal world, celebrating in a broken one. She doesn't know the difference. She just knows the cake was chocolate and the candles were bright and Paati was on the phone and Uncle Arvind was in the backyard and Amma made payasam.
Two. The beginning of opinions, of sentences, of a personality that will outlast this pandemic and everything that comes after it.
I won’t pretend the cake I made for Anaya’s second birthday was a masterpiece — it leaned, the frosting had its own opinions, and I stress-ate approximately one full layer’s worth of scraps before it ever made it to the stand. But that cake was the most intentional thing I’ve ever baked, and a rich, unfussy devil’s food base like this one is exactly where I’d start if I were doing it again: deeply chocolatey, forgiving enough for a first-time layer baker, and sturdy enough to survive whatever frosting adventure comes next. If you’re baking for someone you love under impossible circumstances, this is the one — lopsided or not, it will be beautiful.
Devil’s Food Snack Cake
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 30 min | Total Time: 45 min | Servings: 12
Ingredients
- 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
- 3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
- 2 cups granulated sugar
- 1 1/2 tsp baking soda
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 1/2 tsp fine salt
- 2 large eggs, room temperature
- 1 cup whole buttermilk
- 1/2 cup vegetable oil
- 2 tsp pure vanilla extract
- 3/4 cup hot strong brewed coffee (or hot water)
- For the frosting:
- 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
- 1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
- 2 cups powdered sugar, sifted
- 3–4 tbsp whole milk
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- Pinch of salt
Instructions
- Preheat and prepare. Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Grease a 9x13-inch baking pan (or two 8-inch round pans for a layer cake) with butter or nonstick spray, then lightly dust with cocoa powder.
- Whisk dry ingredients. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa powder, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt until evenly combined.
- Combine wet ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, buttermilk, vegetable oil, and vanilla extract until smooth.
- Mix the batter. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir until just combined. Carefully stir in the hot coffee — the batter will be thin. This is correct; don’t worry.
- Bake. Pour batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 28–32 minutes for a 9x13 pan, or 24–27 minutes for round pans, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with just a few moist crumbs. Do not overbake.
- Cool completely. Let the cake cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack and cool fully before frosting — at least 1 hour.
- Make the frosting. Beat softened butter on medium speed until fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add cocoa powder, powdered sugar, vanilla, and salt. Mix on low, then add milk one tablespoon at a time until the frosting reaches a smooth, spreadable consistency. Beat on medium for 1 minute more.
- Frost and serve. Spread frosting generously over the cooled cake. Don’t worry if it’s uneven — lopsided cakes made with love are always the most beautiful ones. Slice and serve with people you love, near or far.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 420 | Protein: 5g | Fat: 16g | Carbs: 67g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 290mg
About the cook who shared this
Priya Krishnamurthy
Week 218 of Priya’s 30-year story
· Edison, New Jersey
Priya is a pharmacist, wife, and mom of two in Edison, New Jersey — the town she grew up in, surrounded by the sights and smells of her mother's South Indian kitchen. These days, she splits her time between the hospital pharmacy, school pickups, and her own kitchen, where she cooks nearly every night. Her style is a blend of the Tamil recipes her mother taught her and the American comfort food her kids actually want to eat. She writes about the beautiful mess of balancing two cultures on one plate — and she wants you to know that ordering pizza is also an act of love.