Mother's Day. David sent flowers — lilies, which are lovely, and a card that said "To the best mother and the best cook," which is a redundancy, because in the Feldman family those are the same thing. Rebecca called at eight in the morning, which is early for Rebecca, who keeps academic hours and considers anything before ten an act of war against her circadian rhythm. She said, "Happy Mother's Day, Mama. I'm making your chicken soup." I said, "You're what?" She said, "I followed your recipe." I said, "Are the matzo balls fluffy?" There was a pause. "They're... round," she said. I told her round is a shape, not a texture, and we would discuss this further at Shabbat.
Marvin gave me a morning off — meaning he made breakfast, which for Marvin means toast and coffee, which is not breakfast by my standards but is breakfast by his, and the gesture matters more than the menu. He sat across from me and said, "Sylvia would be proud of you." He does not say things like this often. When he does, they land with the weight of a man who has been saving words for thirty-four years. I did not cry. I finished my coffee. Then I went to the kitchen and started making dinner, because if Sylvia taught me anything, it is that emotions are best processed with your hands in dough.
I thought about Sylvia all day. She has been gone thirteen years. Pancreatic cancer, fast, two months from diagnosis to death. She was seventy-five. I was forty-six. I lost the woman who shaped everything about me — my cooking, my intellect, my stubborn insistence that brisket cures everything from heartbreak to head colds. I did not cry at the shiva. I cooked. I fed a hundred people. The cooking was the mourning.
I wrote a Mother's Day post for the blog — about the mothers we carry in our kitchens, the ones who taught us to chop and season and taste, whose hands we see in our own when we roll dough or stir a pot. I wrote about Sylvia's hands, which were small and quick and never wrong about salt. I wrote about watching my own hands age and seeing hers in mine, the way the knuckles bend, the way the fingers know the dough before the mind catches up. The post was hard to write and easy to write, which is how it always is when I write about my mother. The words are right there. They have always been right there. I just had to stop teaching long enough to write them down.
Thirteen years gone, and I still reach for the phone to call her. I still hear her voice in the kitchen: "More salt, Ruthie. Always more salt." She was right. She was always right.
After a week of writing about my mother—her hands, her voice, her relentless wisdom about salt—I needed to cook something that felt like her: something slow and warm and forgiving, the kind of pot you leave to do its work while you do yours. Chicken soup is the obvious answer, the Jewish reflex, but I wanted something a little softer, a little more yielding, the way grief gets when enough years have passed. This crockpot chicken gnocchi soup is what I made, and I salted it exactly the way she would have told me to.
Crockpot Chicken Gnocchi Soup
Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 6–8 hours (low) or 3–4 hours (high) | Total Time: Up to 8 hours 15 minutes | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs
- 1 medium yellow onion, diced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 medium carrots, peeled and sliced into coins
- 3 stalks celery, sliced
- 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
- 1 teaspoon dried thyme
- 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary
- 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 cup fresh baby spinach, roughly chopped
- 1 (16 oz) package shelf-stable potato gnocchi
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons cornstarch
- 2 tablespoons cold water
Instructions
- Layer the base. Place the chicken breasts or thighs in the bottom of the slow cooker. Add the onion, garlic, carrots, and celery directly on top of the chicken.
- Season and cover with broth. Pour the chicken broth over everything. Stir in the thyme, rosemary, onion powder, salt, and pepper. Place the lid on the slow cooker and cook on low for 6–8 hours or on high for 3–4 hours, until the chicken is cooked through and tender.
- Shred the chicken. Remove the chicken to a cutting board and shred it with two forks into bite-sized pieces. Return the shredded chicken to the pot and stir to combine.
- Add the gnocchi and spinach. Stir the gnocchi and spinach into the soup. Cover and cook on high for an additional 20–25 minutes, until the gnocchi are soft and pillowy and the spinach has wilted.
- Thicken and finish. In a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and cold water until smooth. Stir the slurry into the soup along with the heavy cream. Cook uncovered on high for another 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the broth is creamy and slightly thickened.
- Taste and adjust. Taste the soup and add more salt as needed. (More salt. Always more salt.) Ladle into bowls and serve warm with bread, challah, or whatever your table calls for.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 410 | Protein: 31g | Fat: 17g | Carbs: 34g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 520mg