Year six begins the way all good things begin: with dirt under my fingernails and tomato seedlings reaching for the sun. The garden is planted. Cherokee Purples in the raised beds Earl built. Sapelo peppers from Miss Cornelia's seeds — third generation now, established, at home in this soil the way I am at home in this kitchen. The herbs are spreading. The okra seeds are in the ground. And the world is opening like a window someone finally unstuck.
The cooking class is in full swing. Week two was she-crab soup, and the students are good — better than last year's group, maybe because the pandemic taught people that cooking matters. You can't Door-Dash your way through a lockdown forever. Eventually you have to stand at a stove and feed yourself, and feeding yourself is the first step toward feeding others.
A woman in the class — Angela, mid-thirties, recently divorced — she told me after class that cooking saved her sanity during COVID. She said, "I was alone in my apartment for eight months and the only thing that kept me sane was learning to cook." I said, "That's because the kitchen is the one room that gives back. You put in work and food comes out. That's a better return than most relationships." She laughed. I was only half joking.
Kayla and Devon are house-hunting. Not married yet, but living together is a step that my generation frowns on and their generation considers practical, and I have decided to be practical about it because Devon eats three helpings of greens and brings me flowers and that is more than enough qualification for cohabitation. They're looking at a place near Thunderbolt — fifteen minutes from me. I said nothing about the proximity. I thought everything about it.
Made hoppin' John tonight — black-eyed peas and rice, the dish that traces straight back to West Africa through Sapelo through my kitchen. The peas were creamy. The rice was perfect. The tradition continues.
Now go on and feed somebody.
The she-crab soup week got me thinking about what it means to teach someone a bowl of something — the way a creamy, fragrant soup asks you to slow down, to pay attention, to believe that what you put in will come back to you tenfold. Angela said the kitchen saved her sanity, and I believe it, because a chowder like this one is proof: you stand at the stove, you stir, and warmth arrives. This creamy asparagus chowder carries that same spirit as the she-crab — coastal patience, good stock, ingredients that trust each other — and it’s the kind of thing I’d send home with any student who’s just figuring out that feeding yourself is not a small thing.
Creamy Asparagus Chowder
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 30 min | Total Time: 45 min | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 2 lbs fresh asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
- 1 medium yellow onion, diced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 4 cups vegetable or chicken broth
- 1 1/2 cups whole milk
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced small
- 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
- 1/2 teaspoon white pepper
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- 2 tablespoons fresh chives or parsley, chopped, for garnish
Instructions
- Soften the aromatics. Melt butter in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and thyme and cook 1 minute more until fragrant.
- Build the base. Sprinkle flour over the onion mixture and stir to coat, cooking 2 minutes to remove the raw flour taste. Slowly whisk in the broth, a cup at a time, ensuring no lumps form. Bring to a gentle simmer.
- Cook the potatoes. Add diced potatoes to the pot. Simmer uncovered over medium-low heat for 10 minutes, until potatoes are just beginning to soften.
- Add the asparagus. Stir in the asparagus pieces. Reserve about 1/2 cup of asparagus tips for garnish if desired. Continue simmering 8–10 minutes, until asparagus and potatoes are fully tender.
- Blend and finish. Use an immersion blender to partially blend the soup — you want it creamy but with some texture remaining. Stir in the milk and heavy cream. Heat gently over low heat (do not boil). Season with salt, white pepper, and lemon juice.
- Taste and serve. Ladle into warm bowls. Top with reserved asparagus tips, a drizzle of cream if you like, and fresh chives or parsley. Serve immediately with crusty bread.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 245 | Protein: 8g | Fat: 13g | Carbs: 26g | Fiber: 4g | Sodium: 610mg