Creamed Spinach & Pearl Onions

Thanksgiving. Tom's daughter Claire flew in from Colorado Wednesday and was at the table with us — her idea, endorsed by Tom without much resistance. She's fifty-two and competent and looks at her father with the particular attention of someone who has been doing a careful calculation all year. She brought a pie and a bottle of good wine and sat at the table with the comfort of someone who'd decided she was family before she arrived.

I did the turkey. Third year in a row, same brine, same method, same timing. The muscle memory of the holiday is fully developed now — I know when to check the temperature and when to rest it and when to call the table to sit down, and it all happens in the right order. Dad carved, which he's done every year and which I'm not going to suggest he stop doing as long as he can manage it. The first slice fell cleanly and he nodded once and that was the judgment rendered.

After dinner Claire asked about Tom's writing. Not the first book — the second one, the mule accounts, which she didn't know was underway. He told her about it in the abbreviated way he talks about things that matter to him: factual, minimal, daring you to make more of it than he's offering. She looked at him for a moment and then said: I'm proud of you, Pop. He said: Don't make a thing of it. She said she wouldn't and she clearly would. I looked at my plate and didn't say anything because some moments are for the people in them and not for witnesses.

Grateful for the table. For the year that built toward it.

The turkey has its own rhythm now—brine, rest, carve—and I trust it completely. But a table like the one we had this year deserves sides that carry some weight too, and creamed spinach with pearl onions is the one I keep coming back to: warm, a little indulgent, the kind of dish that feels like it’s been on every good Thanksgiving table you’ve ever sat at. It belongs next to a clean first slice of bird and a room that still has something in the air.

Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 25 min | Total Time: 40 min | Servings: 8

Ingredients

2 lbs fresh baby spinach (or two 16 oz bags)
1 lb frozen pearl onions, thawed and patted dry
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups whole milk, warmed
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

Instructions

Wilt the spinach. In a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add spinach in batches with just the water clinging to the leaves. Toss until fully wilted, about 3–4 minutes. Transfer to a colander and press firmly with a clean towel or the back of a spoon to squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Roughly chop and set aside.
Sauté the onions. In the same pot, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium-high heat. Add the pearl onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly golden on the edges, about 5–6 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
Build the béchamel. Reduce heat to medium. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the pot. Once melted, add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1–2 minutes to cook out the raw flour taste.
Add the cream. Slowly pour in the warm milk and heavy cream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Cook, stirring, until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 4–5 minutes.
Season. Stir in the nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
Combine. Fold in the chopped spinach and sautéed pearl onions. Stir to coat everything evenly in the cream sauce. Cook over low heat for 2–3 minutes until heated through.
Finish and serve. Transfer to a serving dish, top with grated Parmesan, and serve immediately. Can be made up to a day ahead and gently rewarmed on the stovetop over low heat with a splash of milk to loosen.

Nutrition (per serving)

Creamed Spinach & Pearl Onions — The Side Dish That Holds the Table Together