Cranberry Ricotta Gnocchi With Brown Butter Sauce

Late April. The peonies came up properly. The herbs replanted. Lilacs starting on Asylum Avenue.

Tuesday food bank: arroz con pollo. Routine.

Wednesday La Cocina cohort 4 week five: soups. Wes made the sopita and said, "Mrs. Carmen, this is the food my Italian grandmother made except with different broth." I said, "Wes, I have been telling you. The grandmothers know each other across the cultures. They never met but they cooked the same soup."

Thursday Sofía came over. She had ended things with Alex over the weekend. She told me at the kitchen counter while I was making coffee. She said, "Ma, it was not — there was nothing wrong. We were not what each other needed. He is too young." I said, "Mija, twenty-six is six years younger." She said, "Ma, it is not the years. It is the place. He is at one place in his life. I am at another. He wants to be a paramedic and have kids in three years. I want to finish nursing school and figure out what kind of nurse I am for five years before I think about kids. We were going at different speeds." I said, "Mija, that is a real reason." She said, "Ma, I am not heartbroken. I am sad. I am — I am okay." I said, "Mija, sometimes okay is the right answer." She said, "Ma, I am okay." I made her café. She drank it.

Friday Mami had a lucid afternoon. I told her about Sofía and Alex. Mami was quiet. She said, "Carmen, Sofía will be okay." I said, "Mami, yes." She said, "Carmen, Sofía will marry. Not him. Someone else. Someone better matched. Soon." I said, "Mami, soon when?" She said, "Carmen, I do not know exactly. But soon. The right person comes when the right person comes." I said, "Mami, you are predicting." She said, "Carmen, I am observing. I have lived eighty-eight years. I know the rhythm of these things." I let her have it.

Sunday dinner: family. Sofía came alone. She seemed fine. The family did not press. Lucas asked about Alex once and Sofía said, "Tío Lucas, we are not seeing each other anymore." Lucas said, "Tía Sofía, I am sorry. He liked tostones." Sofía laughed. She said, "Lucas, he did. He liked them a lot. We will find someone else who likes tostones." Lucas said, "Tía Sofía, I will help." Wepa.

When Wes said his Italian grandmother’s soup tasted like mine, I thought about that all week — how women who never met each other, who cooked from different pantries in different languages, landed in the same place because love and hunger are not that different across borders. This gnocchi is that idea on a plate: ricotta soft as something your grandmother would make, cranberry tart enough to remind you that comfort does not mean simple, brown butter because some things are just true. I made it Sunday after everyone went home, after Sofía laughed about the tostones, after Mami’s words settled in me. It was the right thing to cook.

Prep Time: 25 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 45 min | Servings: 4

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups whole-milk ricotta, drained
1 large egg
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan, plus more for serving
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for the pasta water
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1/2 cup fresh or frozen cranberries
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Flaky salt, for finishing

Instructions

Drain the ricotta. Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth or paper towels and set the ricotta over a bowl. Let it drain for at least 15 minutes to remove excess moisture — this keeps the gnocchi from falling apart in the water.
Make the dough. In a large bowl, combine the drained ricotta, egg, Parmesan, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir until smooth. Add the flour and fold gently until a soft, slightly sticky dough forms. Do not overwork it.
Shape the gnocchi. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface. Divide into 4 portions. Roll each portion into a rope about 3/4 inch thick. Cut each rope into 1-inch pieces. Press lightly with a fork if you like ridges. Place on a floured baking sheet.
Cook the cranberries. In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the cranberries, sugar, and 2 tablespoons of water. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 7 minutes until the cranberries burst and the sauce thickens slightly. Remove from heat and set aside.
Boil the gnocchi. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Working in batches, drop the gnocchi in. They are done when they float to the surface, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate.
Make the brown butter. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Cook, swirling the pan often, until the butter foams, then clears, then turns a deep golden brown and smells nutty, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the thyme — it will sizzle. Remove from heat and add the lemon juice carefully.
Finish the dish. Add the cooked gnocchi to the brown butter skillet and toss gently to coat. Spoon the cranberry sauce over the top. Finish with Parmesan, a pinch of flaky salt, and extra thyme if desired. Serve immediately.

Nutrition (per serving)

Cranberry Ricotta Gnocchi With Brown Butter Sauce — What Wes’s Grandmother and Mine Already Knew