The pop-up is back. August 29th. First one since February. Outdoor only. Masks required. Limited capacity — 100 covers instead of 200. But it's back.
The announcement went out on Instagram (Lily handled it with a countdown graphic and a hype video). The 100 covers sold out in twelve minutes. Twelve minutes. For a pop-up in a parking lot during a pandemic.
The menu is the same: brisket, pho, bao buns, spring rolls, sauce. But the execution has to be different — spacing between tables, contactless payment (Lily's Venmo empire), disposable everything (Emma hates this but understands the necessity), and a one-way flow through the service area.
Ma will not be wrapping spring rolls live this time. She's recovering well but standing in a crowd during a pandemic is exactly what Linh's doctor voice says she should NOT do. Ma was furious. "I'm fine," she said. "I can wear a mask." I said, "Ma, you had COVID four months ago." She said, "And I survived it." I said, "Which is why you're going to survive this too — by staying home."
She'll make the spring rolls at home. I'll pick them up. She's not happy about it. But she's alive, which is the non-negotiable.
Emma and Tyler and I did a full practice run this weekend — the pandemic version. Shortened service time (three hours instead of five), faster plating, fewer items per plate (to reduce handling). The practice went well. The brisket was strong. The pho was Ma's broth, which I made this time under her phone supervision — she called me every thirty minutes during the twelve-hour cook and said things like, "Did you skim?" and "More fish sauce" and "You're using the wrong star anise."
I'm using the same star anise I always use. There is no wrong star anise. But Ma needs to correct something or the broth doesn't count.
The pop-up return is more than a food event. It's a statement: we survived. The brisket survived. The fire survived. Bobby Tran BBQ is still here.
We're still here.
The practice run this weekend was really about trust — trusting that we still had it, that the fire was still there after months of silence. And nothing stress-tests that trust like a long, unforgiving oven cook. While the brisket anchored the pop-up menu, it’s this country ribs recipe that I kept coming back to at home during all those quiet months: low heat, a little patience, and meat that falls apart when it’s ready and not a minute sooner. Ma would approve — she’d probably call every thirty minutes to ask if I skimmed the drippings.
Country Ribs in the Oven
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 2 hrs 30 min | Total Time: 2 hrs 45 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 2 1/2 lbs bone-in country-style pork ribs
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
- 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 cup beef or chicken broth
- 1/2 cup barbecue sauce, plus more for finishing
- 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar
Instructions
- Preheat & prep. Preheat your oven to 300°F. Pat the ribs dry with paper towels — this helps the seasoning stick and gives you better browning.
- Season the ribs. Mix salt, pepper, garlic powder, smoked paprika, onion powder, and thyme in a small bowl. Rub the spice blend evenly over all sides of the ribs.
- Sear for color. Heat olive oil in a large oven-safe Dutch oven or deep baking dish over medium-high heat. Sear ribs 2–3 minutes per side until a deep brown crust forms. Work in batches if needed; don’t crowd the pan.
- Build the braising liquid. Remove ribs and set aside. Add broth, barbecue sauce, apple cider vinegar, and brown sugar to the pan. Stir to combine and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom.
- Braise low and slow. Return ribs to the pan, nestling them into the liquid. Cover tightly with a lid or foil and transfer to the oven. Cook for 2 hours to 2 hours 30 minutes, until the meat is very tender and pulling away from the bone.
- Finish with sauce. Remove the cover, brush ribs with additional barbecue sauce, and return to the oven uncovered for 15 minutes to caramelize the glaze. Rest for 5 minutes before serving.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 480 | Protein: 38g | Fat: 28g | Carbs: 16g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 720mg
About the cook who shared this
Bobby Tran
Week 228 of Bobby’s 30-year story
· Houston, Texas
Bobby Tran was born in a refugee camp in Arkansas to parents who fled Saigon with nothing. He grew up in Houston straddling two worlds — Vietnamese at home, Texan everywhere else — and learned to cook from his mother's pho and a neighbor's BBQ smoker. He's a former shrimper, a recovering alcoholic, a divorced dad of three, and the guy who marinates brisket in fish sauce and lemongrass because he doesn't believe in borders, especially when it comes to flavor.