Thanksgiving week, and Mia is seven months along now, the kind of pregnant that changes a room when she walks into it — not dramatically, just the gravitational fact of new life having weight in the world. She moves differently, holds herself differently, has that second-trimester-to-third-trimester transition happening that I remember with complete physical clarity even though it was decades ago. She is doing beautifully.
I'm cooking Thanksgiving in the new house for the third time and I've found my rhythm with this kitchen now. I know the oven. I know the counter space. I know that the island, which initially seemed excessive, is exactly the right size for everything that needs to happen on it simultaneously on a day like today. I know that the light in late November comes through the eastern windows while I'm doing the morning work and then shifts west for the afternoon, and both are good in different ways.
Menu this year: a spatchcocked turkey, which I've been doing for four years now and will never go back from — the evenness of cooking, the speed, the crackling skin everywhere. The chestnut stuffing baked separately in a cast iron dish. Sweet potato gratin. Green beans with almond butter and crispy shallots. Cranberry sauce with a little fresh ginger. The rolls, as always, which are the only thing I make from a recipe I've never altered, my grandmother's recipe, the one that needs no improvement.
Clara's job this year: setting the table. She took this with tremendous seriousness and arranged the napkins in a pattern of her own devising that was neither traditional nor expected but was genuinely lovely. Henry's job this year: not putting his hands in anything. He performed adequately. Eleanor was passed from adult to adult in her capacity as most recent grandchild and reigning baby, a role she is navigating with characteristic Eleanor seriousness.
Three grandchildren at the table and one on the way. The December baby is eleven weeks out. I made room at the table, practically and metaphorically. There is always room.
A spatchcocked turkey gets all the glory on the day itself, but the recipe I keep coming back to when I want something that feels like a celebration without the full Thanksgiving production — the kind of thing you make the weekend before, or the Sunday after, when the house is still full and people are still lingering — is this corned beef with a blackberry mustard glaze. There’s something about the sweet-tart depth of that glaze that feels exactly right in late November, when the light is low and the table has been set with genuine seriousness by a seven-year-old who has opinions about napkin folds. It’s the roast I make when I want the kitchen to smell like the holidays without asking the oven for anything it hasn’t already given.
Corned Beef with Blackberry Mustard Glaze
Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 3 hours 30 minutes | Total Time: 3 hours 45 minutes | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 3 1/2 to 4 lbs flat-cut corned beef brisket (with spice packet)
- 1 medium onion, quartered
- 3 cloves garlic, smashed
- 2 bay leaves
- water, enough to cover
- For the Blackberry Mustard Glaze:
- 1/2 cup blackberry preserves or jam
- 3 tablespoons whole-grain Dijon mustard
- 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar, packed
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Instructions
- Simmer the brisket. Place the corned beef in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaves, and the enclosed spice packet. Cover with cold water by at least 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a low simmer. Cover and cook for 3 to 3 1/2 hours, until the meat is very tender when pierced with a fork.
- Make the glaze. While the beef simmers, combine the blackberry preserves, whole-grain Dijon, apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, black pepper, and salt in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir until the preserves are melted and the glaze is smooth and slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
- Preheat the broiler. When the beef is tender, preheat your oven’s broiler to high. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and set a wire rack over it.
- Glaze and broil. Remove the corned beef from the braising liquid and pat it dry with paper towels. Transfer to the prepared rack fat-side up. Brush generously with half the blackberry mustard glaze. Broil 6 to 8 inches from the heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until the glaze is bubbling and caramelized. Brush with remaining glaze and broil another 2 to 3 minutes, watching closely to avoid burning.
- Rest and slice. Remove from the oven and let the beef rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Cut against the grain into 1/4-inch slices and arrange on a platter. Spoon any collected pan juices over the top. Serve with extra glaze alongside if desired.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 390 | Protein: 28g | Fat: 22g | Carbs: 18g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 1340mg