July 2038. First summer without camp in twenty-two years. I woke up at five on the Monday camp would have started and sat at the kitchen table for an hour drinking coffee and doing nothing. Not meditating. Not planning. Doing nothing. The absence had a texture to it — not emptiness exactly, more like space that hasn't been furnished yet.
I've been cooking. More than usual, more intentionally than usual, working through things I've wanted to make for years and never had time for. This month: mole negro, which takes three days when done properly and which I've attempted twice before and abandoned partway through because the season called. This time I finished it. Three days of toasting and blending and adding and reducing, and the result was something that tasted like the fullest possible expression of what I've been making for thirty years. Lisa ate it with handmade tortillas and said: you've never made anything better than this. I said: I've never had three days before. She said: get used to having three days.
I drove to Colorado Springs to watch Marco's team scrimmage. He's entering his second season as head coach and the players look more comfortable in the system than last year — loose in the way teams get when they trust each other. He saw me in the stands and waved and went back to coaching. I liked that. He didn't perform for me. He just worked. That's the mark of someone who knows what he's doing. I stayed for the full session and drove home thinking about him at thirty-three, doing the thing, and I thought: Ruben would have come to every game. He would have been the loudest person in the stands and Marco would have pretended to be embarrassed and not been embarrassed at all.
That mole negro took three days and every minute of stillness I could gather, and when it was done I wanted to end the meal with something that honored the same unhurried logic — something that couldn’t be rushed, that rewarded the patience this summer has been teaching me. I’d been drinking coffee at the kitchen table at five in the morning all month, watching the light change, and it felt right to turn that ritual into a dessert. Lisa and I ate this after the mole, after the handmade tortillas, and it was the kind of ending a meal earns when you finally have three days.
Coffee Ice Cream
Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cook Time: 15 minutes | Total Time: 6 hours (includes chilling — freezing) | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 2 cups heavy whipping cream
- 1 cup whole milk
- 3/4 cup granulated sugar
- 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder (or finely ground dark roast coffee)
- 4 large egg yolks
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- 1/4 teaspoon fine salt
Instructions
- Steep the cream. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the heavy cream, whole milk, and espresso powder. Warm until steaming and just beginning to simmer, stirring to fully dissolve the coffee. Remove from heat and let steep for 10 minutes.
- Whisk the yolks. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and salt until pale and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.
- Temper the eggs. Slowly pour about 1/2 cup of the warm coffee cream into the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Then pour the tempered egg mixture back into the saucepan with the remaining cream.
- Cook the custard. Return the saucepan to medium-low heat. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, until the custard thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon and registers 170–175°F, about 8–10 minutes. Do not boil.
- Strain and chill. Pour the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean bowl. Stir in the vanilla extract. Let cool to room temperature, then press plastic wrap directly onto the surface and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
- Churn. Pour the chilled custard into your ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions, typically 20–25 minutes, until thickened to a soft-serve consistency.
- Freeze. Transfer the churned ice cream to a freezer-safe container, smooth the top, and press a layer of plastic wrap against the surface. Freeze for at least 2 hours until firm before serving.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 310 | Protein: 4g | Fat: 22g | Carbs: 24g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 95mg