March, and Mama's birthday — March 28th — will be the first birthday without her. The first birthday where the coconut cake is not made for the woman it was named for but in memory of the woman it was named for, and the in-memory-of is the shift from present to past that every death creates, the shift that changes "I bake the cake for Mama" to "I bake the cake because Mama," and the because is the new grammar, and the grammar is the grief, and the grief is the cake.
I baked the coconut cake at four AM. Three layers. Cream cheese frosting. No candles. The no-candles was the acknowledgment: the woman who blew them out is not here, and the blowing-out requires the woman, and the woman is gone. But the cake persists. The cake is here. The cake is the thing that persists when the woman does not, and the persisting is the love.
I took a slice to the cemetery — a small ceremony, just me and the cake and the headstone that reads "Carolyn Simmons, 1943-2023, Beloved Mother, Grandmother, Cook." The "Cook" was my addition. The addition was the truth. And the truth is on the stone.
Joy called and sang "Happy Birthday" — to Mama, to the air, to the phone, to whoever is listening in the place where Mama is. Joy sang with the same volume and the same enthusiasm she has brought to every "Happy Birthday" she has ever sung, and the singing was the celebration, and the celebration does not require the person to be present. It requires only the person to have been loved.
I made the coconut cake. I will make it every March 28th. The making is the birthday. The birthday is the making. And the making is forever.
The coconut cake belongs to Mama — it always will — but in the days after I brought that slice to the cemetery, I found myself reaching for coconut again, needing it close, needing its sweetness in a smaller and quieter form. These Coconut Lime Shortbread Cookies are what came of that reaching: buttery and tender, bright with lime, the kind of thing you can bake in the early morning hours when the grief is loudest and your hands need something to do. I make them now as a companion to the cake — not a replacement, never a replacement — but another way to keep saying her name with a wooden spoon and a warm oven.
Coconut Lime Shortbread Cookies
Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cook Time: 14 minutes | Total Time: 34 minutes (plus 30 minutes chilling) | Servings: 24 cookies
Ingredients
- 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
- 1/2 cup powdered sugar, sifted
- 1 tablespoon fresh lime zest (from about 2 limes)
- 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 3/4 cup sweetened shredded coconut, finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons granulated sugar (for rolling, optional)
Instructions
- Cream the butter and sugar. In a large bowl, beat the softened butter and powdered sugar together on medium speed until pale and fluffy, about 2–3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.
- Add lime and vanilla. Mix in the lime zest, lime juice, and vanilla extract until fully incorporated. The mixture may look slightly curdled — that’s fine.
- Add dry ingredients. Reduce mixer speed to low and add the flour and salt. Mix just until the dough begins to come together, then fold in the shredded coconut by hand using a rubber spatula.
- Shape and chill. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and shape it into a log approximately 2 inches in diameter. If desired, roll the log in granulated sugar for a sparkling edge. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes (or up to 2 days).
- Preheat and slice. Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Slice the chilled dough log into 1/4-inch rounds and arrange them about 1 inch apart on the prepared sheets.
- Bake. Bake for 12–14 minutes, until the edges are just barely golden. The centers will look pale and slightly underdone — that’s correct. They firm as they cool.
- Cool. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack. They will be delicate while warm. Cool completely before storing in an airtight container for up to one week.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 148 | Protein: 1g | Fat: 9g | Carbs: 16g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 30mg