Classic Macaroni and Cheese -- The Dish That Offers Seconds (and Thirds)

Second week of August and the heat has entered what I call its "personal grudge" phase — the stage where it's not just hot but seems to be hot specifically at you, like the weather has decided that your comfort is the one thing standing between it and some meteorological goal it's trying to achieve. My route takes three hours in winter. In August, it takes four, because I stop more, drink more, and walk slower, and because several of my regular customers — God bless them — leave water and Gatorade on their porches for the mailman, and it would be rude not to stop and drink it and maybe sit in the shade for a minute.

School started. DeAndre walked into first grade at Germantown Elementary on Wednesday morning, and Walter Jr. sent me a photo: DeAndre in his school uniform, backpack as big as his torso, grinning with the reckless optimism of a child who doesn't know that school only gets harder from here. I printed that photo at Walgreens and put it on the refrigerator, where it joins the other refrigerator photos — DeAndre's kindergarten photo, Aaliyah's pre-K photo, Trey's first birthday, and in the corner, faded and small, a picture of Denise at her high school graduation, smiling like the future was something she'd already won.

Aaliyah started pre-K this year. She's four and a half and already bossy in the way that Rosetta is bossy, which is to say effectively and without apology. Tamika says Aaliyah lined up the other kids at recess and organized a game by assigning roles and rules. I said, "She's going to be a nurse." Rosetta said, "She's going to be president." We might both be right.

This week I made something I don't make often: smoked mac and cheese. It's a side dish that most BBQ joints serve from a steam tray, something that sits next to the meat and does its job without drawing attention. But smoked mac and cheese — made properly, from scratch, and finished on the smoker — is something else entirely. It's a dish that stands up and introduces itself.

Here's how you do it, friend: You make your cheese sauce first — butter, flour, milk, then a blend of sharp cheddar and Gruyere, stirred until it's smooth and thick and the color of a Memphis sunset. You cook your elbow macaroni just short of done, mix it with the sauce, pour it into a cast iron skillet or an aluminum pan, and put it on the smoker at 250 for forty-five minutes. The smoke does something to the top layer of cheese that the oven cannot — it forms a skin, a bark almost, like on a brisket, and underneath that bark is molten, smoky, rich macaroni that tastes like someone combined a campfire and a grandmother's kitchen into a single bite.

I made it for Tyrone, who came over Saturday for dominoes and brought his new lady friend, a woman named Gayle who works at the VA hospital. Tyrone has been single for six years since his divorce, and Gayle is the first woman he's brought to meet me, which tells me the same thing Angela's visits tell me about Marcus: this is serious. Gayle was pleasant, laughed easily, and ate two servings of smoked mac and cheese without pretending she wasn't hungry, which I consider a sign of excellent character.

Tyrone was nervous. He kept looking at me to see if I approved, the way little brothers look at big brothers for permission even when they're fifty-two years old. I said, "Gayle, would you like some more?" and Tyrone relaxed, because in the Johnson family, offering seconds is approval, and offering thirds is love.

Watching Tyrone relax at that table—fifty-two years old and still needing his big brother—reminded me why I cook the way I do: food is how the Johnson men say what we can’t quite put into words. Smoked mac and cheese was the right dish for that night because it’s a comfort food that doesn’t apologize for itself, same as Gayle didn’t apologize for being hungry, and same as I didn’t need to say out loud that I approved. Here’s how I made it.

Smoked Mac and Cheese

Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 55 min | Total Time: 1 hr 15 min | Servings: 8

Ingredients

• 1 lb elbow macaroni
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 3 cups whole milk, warmed
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, freshly shredded
• 1 cup Gruyere cheese, freshly shredded
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard powder
• 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika, plus more for topping
• 1/2 cup sharp cheddar, reserved for topping

Instructions

1. Preheat the smoker. Set your smoker to 250°F. Use hickory or apple wood chunks for a mild, sweet smoke that complements the cheese without overpowering it.
2. Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook elbow macaroni 2 minutes less than the package directions—it should be firm, not fully cooked. Drain and set aside.
3. Make the cheese sauce. In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Whisk in flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly, until the mixture turns light golden. Slowly pour in the warmed milk and cream, whisking continuously to prevent lumps. Cook for 4–5 minutes until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.
4. Add the cheese. Reduce heat to low. Add shredded cheddar and Gruyere in handfuls, stirring after each addition until fully melted and smooth. Season with salt, pepper, mustard powder, garlic powder, and smoked paprika. Taste and adjust seasoning.
5. Combine and transfer. Add the drained pasta to the cheese sauce and stir to coat evenly. Pour the mixture into a well-seasoned 12-inch cast iron skillet or a large aluminum pan. Spread into an even layer. Top with the reserved 1/2 cup of shredded cheddar and a light dusting of smoked paprika.
6. Smoke the mac and cheese. Place the skillet directly on the smoker grate. Smoke uncovered at 250°F for 45 minutes, until the top forms a golden, lightly set crust—a bark, almost—and the edges bubble. The interior should stay creamy and molten.
7. Rest and serve. Remove from the smoker and let rest 5 minutes before serving. This allows the sauce to settle slightly so it scoops cleanly. Serve directly from the cast iron.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 520 | Protein: 21g | Fat: 27g | Carbs: 48g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 520mg