Classic Creamy Macaroni and Cheese -- The Cafeteria Greatest Hit That Never Gets Old

May. The garden is taking off like it means business. The tomato plants are knee-high, the pepper plants are flowering, and the okra — Lord, the okra is coming in like it has something to prove. I picked the first small batch on Saturday and fried them up with cornmeal and salt, standing at the stove with the oil popping and the kitchen window open, and for about ten minutes, everything in the world was exactly right.

Earl's garden is his pride, even though he can't do the heavy work anymore. He sits in his chair by the raised beds and tells me what needs water, what needs pruning, what the aphids are doing. He's the general and I'm the army, and neither of us minds the arrangement. Saturday mornings in that garden are the best part of my week — the marsh smell coming in, the dirt under my fingernails, Earl's voice low and steady saying, "Those tomatoes need staking, Dot." I know they need staking. He knows I know. But saying it is his way of being out there with me, even when his body won't let him stand.

At school, we're planning the end-of-year menus. Every May, I try to do something special for the last week — a "greatest hits" menu of the dishes the kids loved most during the year. This year they voted: chicken nuggets (homemade, not that frozen mess), pizza (dough from scratch), mac and cheese (my recipe, with three kinds of cheese), and tacos. The children have spoken and I will obey, because democracy starts in the cafeteria.

I had a moment this week that caught me off guard. I was cleaning out the pantry and I found a jar of pepper jelly that Mama made. Not me — Mama. Hattie Pearl. The label is in her handwriting, dated 2007 — the year before she died. I must have pushed it to the back of the shelf and forgotten. I stood there holding that jar like it was made of gold, because it is. It's the last thing my mother's hands touched in my kitchen. I won't open it. I can't. I put it on the shelf above the stove where I can see it every day.

Fried okra for supper tonight. First of the season. Earl said, "Dot, these are perfect." I said, "I know." He said, "Humble as always." I said, "Humility is for people who haven't been cooking for fifty years."

Now go on and feed somebody.

The kids voted, and mac and cheese made the greatest hits list again — because of course it did. This is the one they holler for every year, three kinds of cheese and not a single shortcut. I’ve been making this recipe longer than some of their parents have been alive, and it hasn’t failed me yet. If you’re going to feed somebody, you might as well feed them right.

Classic Creamy Macaroni and Cheese

Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 30 minutes | Total Time: 45 minutes | Servings: 8

Ingredients

• 1 pound elbow macaroni
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 3 cups whole milk, warmed
• 8 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (about 2 cups)
• 4 ounces Colby Jack cheese, shredded (about 1 cup)
• 4 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded (about 1 cup)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard powder
• 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
• Pinch of cayenne pepper
• 1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs (optional, for topping)
• 1 tablespoon melted butter (optional, for topping)

Instructions

1. Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the elbow macaroni one minute short of the package directions so it’s still slightly firm. Drain and set aside.
2. Make the roux. In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, melt 4 tablespoons of butter. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes until it smells nutty and turns a pale gold.
3. Build the sauce. Slowly pour in the warm milk, whisking steadily to prevent lumps. Continue whisking over medium heat until the sauce thickens and coats the back of a spoon, about 5 to 7 minutes.
4. Add the cheese. Remove the pot from the heat. Stir in the sharp cheddar, Colby Jack, and Gruyère a handful at a time, stirring until each addition is melted and smooth. Season with salt, pepper, dry mustard, garlic powder, and cayenne.
5. Combine. Fold the cooked macaroni into the cheese sauce until every piece is coated. Pour into a lightly greased 9x13-inch baking dish.
6. Add topping (optional). Toss the panko breadcrumbs with 1 tablespoon melted butter and scatter evenly over the top.
7. Bake. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake uncovered for 20 to 25 minutes until the edges are bubbling and the top is golden brown. Let rest 5 minutes before serving.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 485 | Protein: 22g | Fat: 24g | Carbs: 46g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 580mg