Cilantro Potatoes

Memorial Day weekend. The first cookout weekend. The day Hartford officially agrees to let grills out of the garage and officially allows the shorts to come out of the closet, and I participate in both rituals because I am a good neighbor and because I hate winter.

Sunday I made pinchos. Pinchos de pollo — chicken skewers — marinated in sofrito and a little orange juice and black pepper and cumin and a splash of vinegar, grilled over charcoal by Eduardo, who is the grill master in this family specifically because I hate dealing with the coals and because Eduardo is calm around fire, which is a good trait in a husband. The pinchos came off the grill blackened at the edges and juicy in the middle and served with garlic-mayo-ketchup sauce on mini sandwich rolls, which is a Puerto Rican roadside thing, kiosko-style, the food of beach weekends and baseball Sundays in Isla Verde.

Miguel Jr. and Jenny brought the kids. Lucas ate four pinchos. Isabella ate two. Jenny said, "They will not sleep tonight, Ma." She calls me Ma now. Has for about eighteen months. The transition from "Carmen" to "Ma" is not announced. It just happens. One day the daughter-in-law says Ma and the relationship has graduated. I did not cry at the first Ma. I bit my lip. I served Jenny another pincho.

Mami came. Eduardo drove her over. She sat in the folding chair on the back patio with a quilt on her lap because even in seventy-degree weather she is cold now, and she watched the children run in the yard, and she said to me, "Your grandchildren are the most beautiful children." Which is what grandmothers say. But Mami said it with her good eyes, her lucid eyes, and I could tell she was really seeing them and really meaning it and it hit me that she will not see them grow up. She will not see Lucas in kindergarten. She will not see Isabella learn to speak in full sentences. She will not see Camila walk. She is eighty-five and fragile and she is leaving slowly and I do not know when but I know it is coming.

I sat next to her for a long time. I did not say anything. She did not say anything. We ate pinchos together. The kids ran. Eduardo flipped the last skewers on the grill. Jenny took a photo of Mami and me that I did not know she took until Tuesday, when she texted it to me. Mami and I, both in folding chairs, both holding paper plates, Mami's hand on my knee.

I have printed the photo. It is on the refrigerator. Memorial Day. Wepa.

The pinchos always get the glory — and they should — but every plate that came off Eduardo’s grill that Sunday had cilantro potatoes piled right next to them, and Lucas ate those too, which tells you everything. Cilantro is the thread that runs through almost everything I cook that tastes like home, and these potatoes are the simplest proof of that: just good olive oil, garlic, lime, and enough fresh cilantro to make the whole backyard smell like a Sunday in Isla Verde. If you’re making pinchos, make these. They belong together.

Prep Time: 10 min | Cook Time: 25 min | Total Time: 35 min | Servings: 6

Ingredients

2 lbs small red or yellow potatoes, halved
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for boiling
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
3/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped

Instructions

Boil the potatoes. Place halved potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook until potatoes are just fork-tender, about 18–20 minutes. Do not overcook — they should hold their shape.
Drain and dry. Drain the potatoes thoroughly and return them to the hot pot for 1–2 minutes off the heat, shaking gently, so any excess moisture steams off. This helps the dressing cling.
Make the garlic oil. While potatoes drain, warm olive oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add minced garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and just beginning to turn golden, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat immediately.
Dress the potatoes. Transfer warm potatoes to a large serving bowl. Pour the warm garlic oil over them and add the salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes if using. Toss gently to coat.
Finish with lime and cilantro. Add lime juice and chopped cilantro. Toss once more. Taste and adjust salt. Serve warm or at room temperature — these are equally good both ways on a cookout table.

Nutrition (per serving)

Cilantro Potatoes — The Side That Belongs on Every Pincho Plate