December in Tarpon Springs is when the town becomes the most Greek place in America that is not actually in Greece. The sponge docks are strung with lights, the shops are selling ornaments shaped like Greek crosses and evil eyes, and every restaurant is pushing holiday specials that involve baklava and mulled wine and a soundtrack of Greek Christmas music that sounds nothing like American Christmas music and is, frankly, better. I love December in Tarpon Springs. I love it the way I love the bakery and Sunday dinners and the sound of Mama's voice at 5 AM — deeply, helplessly, without reservation.
The bakery is in full holiday mode. The line stretches out the door every Saturday morning. Tourists buy baklava by the box. Regulars place orders for holiday trays — kourabiedes, melomakarona, diples, galaktoboureko. Mama works from 4 AM to 2 PM and refuses to hire extra help because Voula Papadopoulos does not believe in delegation, she believes in doing it herself and complaining about it afterward, which is the Papadopoulos version of delegation.
I helped make melomakarona this weekend — the olive oil cookies dipped in honey syrup and topped with chopped walnuts that are the other Christmas cookie, the one that stands next to the kourabiedes and represents the other half of Greek Christmas. Where kourabiedes are light and buttery and white with sugar, melomakarona are dark and dense and soaked with honey and cloves and cinnamon. Together they are the whole of the season: light and dark, sweet and spiced, butter and olive oil. You need both. You always need both.
Alexander's first semester grades came in: 3.9 GPA. I called Mama immediately. She said he should study harder. I said Mama, 3.9 is almost perfect. She said almost is not perfect. I laughed. This is Voula. This is where I learned that good is never enough, that the bechamel can always be smoother, that the phyllo can always be thinner, that the grandchildren can always study more. It sounds harsh written down. It is not harsh. It is love with high standards, which is the only kind of love Greek mothers know how to give.
I made diples tonight — fried pastry ribbons dipped in honey syrup and sprinkled with cinnamon and chopped walnuts. They are festive and messy and impossible to eat without getting honey on everything within a three-foot radius. Sophia ate six and got honey in her hair and on her textbook and on the dog we do not have, which is to say she got honey everywhere. Alexander ate eight. I ate four and spent twenty minutes cleaning the kitchen. Diples are the Greek dessert equivalent of glitter: beautiful, celebratory, and absolutely impossible to contain.
After a weekend of honey-soaked diples and melomakarona and a kitchen that still smells like cloves and warm walnuts, I kept thinking about what it is that makes holiday sweets feel the way they do — that particular combination of cinnamon, sugar, and something crispy that signals to your whole body that the season has arrived. Churro Toffee gets at exactly that feeling: it has the cinnamon-sugar snap of fried dough, the glossy sweetness of a syrup-dipped pastry, and the same dangerous quality as diples in that you will absolutely eat more than you planned and you will have absolutely no regrets. Sophia has already requested a batch of her own, honey-hair incident notwithstanding.
Churro Toffee (Disneyland Copycat)
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 15 minutes | Total Time: 25 minutes (plus 30 minutes setting time) | Servings: 20 pieces
Ingredients
- 40 saltine crackers (one sleeve, approximately)
- 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
- 1 cup packed light brown sugar
- 2 cups white chocolate chips or white melting wafers
- 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
- 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
Instructions
- Prep the pan. Preheat your oven to 375°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet (half-sheet size, approximately 18x13 inches) with aluminum foil, then lay a sheet of parchment paper on top. Arrange the saltine crackers in a single, snug layer across the entire pan — they should fit edge to edge with no gaps.
- Make the toffee. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter completely. Add the brown sugar and salt, stirring to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil, then let it boil — without stirring — for exactly 3 minutes. It will turn a deep amber and smell like caramel. Watch it closely; it moves fast once it gets going.
- Pour and bake. Carefully pour the hot toffee evenly over the crackers, spreading gently with a heatproof spatula to cover every cracker. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 5–7 minutes, until the toffee is bubbling all over and has darkened slightly at the edges.
- Add the white chocolate. Remove the pan from the oven and let it sit for 2 minutes. Scatter the white chocolate chips evenly across the hot toffee surface. Wait another 2–3 minutes until the chips are visibly softened, then spread the melted white chocolate into a smooth, even layer using an offset spatula or the back of a spoon.
- Make the cinnamon sugar. In a small bowl, whisk together the granulated sugar and cinnamon. Sprinkle the mixture generously and evenly over the white chocolate layer while it is still wet.
- Set and break. Transfer the pan to the refrigerator or set it on a cool counter until the chocolate is fully hardened, at least 30 minutes. Once set, lift the parchment out of the pan and break the toffee into irregular pieces. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to one week — though it will not last that long.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 295 | Protein: 2g | Fat: 17g | Carbs: 34g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 130mg