Chiles Rellenos Soufflé

The week between Christmas and New Year's. David stayed through Tuesday. Sofía stayed with me Saturday overnight. Eduardo, David, Sofía, and I had three slow mornings of coffee and toast and leftover pernil and conversations that ranged.

Sunday David and I went to see Mami together. She had been back in the apartment for two days since Nochebuena. She was in her chair. She recognized David immediately. She said, "Davidito. You are here." He kneeled next to her chair and took her hand. She said, "You cook in New York." He said, "Mami, yes. At a big restaurant." She said, "Good. Cook for everyone. Feed them." She closed her eyes. She opened them. She said, "You look like your father." She meant Eduardo. David said, "Mami, you always say that." She said, "Because it is always true."

We stayed for an hour. She dozed twice. We held her hands. When we left she said, "Davidito, fly safely." David said, "Mami, I will." She said, "Carmen, cook well." I said, "Mami, I will."

Outside in the car David cried. He did not cry often. He cried. He said, "Ma, I think this is the last time." I said, "Mijo, we do not know." He said, "I do." He was quiet for a while. He said, "Ma, I want you to know — I will be on the first train if anything. Promise me." I promised.

Tuesday David flew home. Sofía stayed with me through Wednesday. I was glad. I did not want to be alone with my thoughts all week.

Thursday I took Mami to the doctor. The home visit had been moved to the actual clinic at Mami's insistence — she said, "Carmen, I want to go out. I want to see the street." I took her. The doctor examined her. He said, "Luz María, you are comfortable? Eating? Sleeping?" She said, "Yes to all three. Some days more than others." He said, "Luz María, we will adjust one medication. Otherwise, continue."

In the car on the way home Mami said, "Carmen, I am not sick. I am old. There is a difference." I said, "Mami, I know." She said, "Old is what happens. There is no cure." I said, "I know, Mami." She said, "Drive slower. I am not in a hurry." I drove slower. Wepa.

By Thursday evening—after the doctor, after Mami’s words about old age and no cure, after driving slower down streets she wanted to see—I came home and stood in my kitchen and did not want anything simple. I wanted something that asked me to pay attention, to be present, to use my hands. I had peppers. I had eggs. I had cheese. I made this soufflé because it could not be rushed, and that night, neither could I.

Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 35 min | Total Time: 55 min | Servings: 6

Ingredients

2 cans (7 oz each) whole green chiles, drained and patted dry
2 cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese
1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
4 large eggs, separated
1 can (12 oz) evaporated milk
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
Salsa or sour cream for serving

Instructions

Preheat and prepare. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish. Split the drained chiles open lengthwise and lay them flat in a single layer across the bottom of the dish.
Add the cheese. Sprinkle the Monterey Jack and cheddar cheeses evenly over the chiles. If any chiles overlap, tuck cheese beneath them so every bite gets coverage.
Make the custard base. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, evaporated milk, flour, garlic powder, cumin, salt, and pepper until smooth and no lumps remain. Set aside.
Beat the egg whites. In a clean, dry bowl, beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form. This is what gives the soufflé its lift—do not rush it.
Fold and combine. Gently fold the beaten egg whites into the yolk mixture in two or three additions, using a wide spatula and a light hand. You want to keep as much air in the batter as possible.
Pour and bake. Pour the egg mixture evenly over the chiles and cheese. Bake uncovered for 30–35 minutes, until the top is golden and the center is just set with only a slight jiggle.
Rest and serve. Let the soufflé rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve warm with salsa or sour cream alongside.

Nutrition (per serving)

Chiles Rellenos Soufflé — What You Make When the House Goes Quiet Again