May. The world is reopening, tentatively, the way a person reopens a door they closed in fear — slowly, with one hand on the frame, ready to close it again. School will continue remotely through June. Next year — my forty-third year — may be in person. The "may" is familiar. I live in the land of may now: Marvin may have a good day. The medication may be helping. The grandchildren may visit this weekend. May is not certainty. May is the best I have.
Mother's Day this year felt different. David sent lilies, as always — the consistency of David's floral choices is a comfort that operates at a level deeper than aesthetics. Rebecca called at seven-thirty, a new tradition born from the pandemic, and said, "Happy Mother's Day, Mama. I love you." Just that. No joke. No literary reference. Just the declaration, bare and plain, the way words sound when a year of isolation has stripped them of everything except meaning. I said, "I love you too, sweetheart." The simplicity felt right. Some years require elaborate brisket posts about Sylvia's kitchen. This year required three words.
I made roast chicken for Mother's Day dinner. The chicken that was always Sylvia's Mother's Day dish — lemon, garlic, paprika, roasted until golden. Marvin sat at the table. He ate the chicken. He did not know it was Mother's Day. He did not know I am a mother, or at least the knowledge was not accessible, not today, not in this hour. But he ate the chicken, and he looked at me across the table with something that might have been recognition or might have been habit or might have been the body remembering what the mind has lost: this woman feeds me. This woman is important. This woman is mine.
I wrote about Mother's Day on the blog — about the mothers who cook and the mothers who are remembered through cooking and the mothers who will never be forgotten because the brisket carries their memory the way rivers carry sediment: silently, constantly, deposited in the kitchens of their daughters and their daughters' daughters. Sylvia. Always Sylvia. Fourteen years gone and still the most present person in my kitchen.
The chicken was perfect. The lilies were on the table. The evening was quiet. I sat in the kitchen after dinner and called Miriam, and we talked about Sylvia for an hour, because it is Mother's Day and we are motherless daughters and the only way to honor a dead mother is to talk about her until the talking becomes prayer and the prayer becomes cooking and the cooking becomes the chain.
The chicken I made that Mother’s Day — lemon, garlic, paprika, roasted golden the way Sylvia always made it — is the dish I reach for when I need the kitchen to feel like more than a kitchen. This chicken with garlic sauce is the closest I can get to that dish in recipe form: the garlic is generous, the pan is warm, and the whole thing smells like something worth remembering. I have made it many times since that quiet May evening, and each time I set it on the table I think of Marvin looking at me across the plates, and of Miriam on the phone, and of Sylvia — always Sylvia — who taught me that feeding people is its own kind of prayer.
Chicken with Garlic Sauce
Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 35 minutes | Total Time: 50 minutes | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 2 lbs total)
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 8 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/2 cup low-sodium chicken broth
- 1/4 cup dry white wine (or additional broth)
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon lemon zest
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Instructions
- Season the chicken. Pat chicken thighs dry with paper towels. Season all over with salt, pepper, and smoked paprika.
- Sear until golden. Heat olive oil in a large oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Place chicken skin-side down and cook without moving for 7–8 minutes, until the skin is deep golden and releases easily from the pan. Flip and cook 3 minutes more. Transfer chicken to a plate.
- Build the garlic sauce. Reduce heat to medium. Add minced garlic to the drippings in the pan and cook, stirring constantly, for 60 seconds until fragrant and just golden. Do not let it brown.
- Deglaze the pan. Pour in white wine and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Let it bubble for 1 minute, then add chicken broth, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Stir to combine.
- Return chicken and roast. Nestle the chicken thighs back into the skillet, skin-side up. Transfer to a 400°F oven and roast for 20–22 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 165°F and the skin is crisp.
- Finish the sauce. Remove skillet from oven. Transfer chicken to a serving platter. Over low heat, swirl butter into the pan sauce until melted and slightly thickened, about 1 minute.
- Serve. Spoon garlic sauce generously over the chicken. Scatter chopped parsley on top and serve immediately, with crusty bread or roasted potatoes alongside.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 410 | Protein: 34g | Fat: 28g | Carbs: 4g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 480mg