Summer. The pandemic summer, part two. Detroit is cautiously reopening — masks still required, social distancing still practiced, but the grip of the lockdown has loosened enough that the grills are going again and the block parties are returning (smaller, outdoor, distanced). I grill every weekend. The grill is not just a cooking tool anymore — it is a therapy, a social node, a way of being present in my community when the rest of my life is conducted in isolation.
I cooked for the basketball league's summer kickoff again. Ribs, chicken, mac and cheese, cornbread. Fifty people (outdoor, distanced, the new normal). The food was better than last year — the mac and cheese was four cheeses and golden, the ribs had six hours of smoke, the cornbread was Mama's recipe from the cast-iron skillet. Mr. Davis said, "Coach Carter, the coaching is good but the cooking is better." I said, "Maybe. But the kids can't eat jump shots." He laughed. The kids laughed. I served plates and watched people eat my food and felt the purpose that has been building since Jerome first said "you should open a restaurant" three years ago.
Aiden is five and playing summer basketball at the community center. He has graduated from the toddler hoop to the real court, playing with kids his age, and his game is — I need to be objective — above average. He is quick, he sees the court, he passes before he shoots (which is unusual for a five-year-old and which I take credit for). He is not a prodigy. He is a good player who loves the game, and "good player who loves the game" is exactly what I want him to be. Not great. Not scholarship-bound. Good, and in love with it.
Zaria is two and a half and has decided that she wants to cook every meal with me. Every. Meal. She drags her step stool to the counter and stands there, waiting, until I give her something to stir, pour, or taste. She tastes everything — raw batter, uncooked sauce, seasoning directly from the jar. Her palate is developing through exposure, which is how Mama's palate developed, which is how mine is developing now. We are a family of tasters.
I made jerk chicken on Saturday. For the kids. Aiden ate it with the grimace of a five-year-old encountering Scotch bonnet peppers for the first time. Zaria ate it with no reaction, because Zaria fears nothing, including capsaicin. She is Cheryl Carter's granddaughter. Spice is her birthright.
After a Saturday of jerk chicken — watching Aiden grimace through Scotch bonnet heat and Zaria take it like she was born to — I wanted Sunday to be something rich and saucy, something that felt like a reward for the week. Zaria was already on her step stool by the time I pulled the chicken thighs out, and honestly, that’s the whole point: a sauce bold enough to hold up to this family, simple enough that a two-and-a-half-year-old can help stir it. The tomato vodka sauce has that same confidence the jerk marinade has — it doesn’t apologize for itself — and in this house, that’s exactly right.
Chicken Thighs With Tomato Vodka Sauce
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 35 minutes | Total Time: 45 minutes | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/2 medium yellow onion, finely diced
- 1/3 cup vodka
- 1 can (28 oz) crushed tomatoes
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano
- Fresh basil, for garnish
- Grated Parmesan, for serving
Instructions
- Season the chicken. Pat chicken thighs dry with paper towels. Season all over with salt, pepper, and smoked paprika.
- Sear skin-side down. Heat olive oil in a large oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken thighs skin-side down and sear undisturbed for 6–8 minutes, until the skin is deep golden and releases easily from the pan. Flip and sear the other side for 3 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate.
- Build the base. Reduce heat to medium. In the same skillet, add onion and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and red pepper flakes and cook 1 minute more, stirring constantly.
- Deglaze with vodka. Pour in vodka and let it cook down for 2 minutes, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
- Add the tomatoes and cream. Stir in crushed tomatoes, heavy cream, and oregano. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly.
- Return the chicken. Nestle the seared chicken thighs into the sauce, skin-side up. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for 18–20 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and registers 165°F at the thickest part.
- Rest and serve. Remove from heat and let rest 5 minutes. Garnish with fresh basil and Parmesan. Serve over pasta, polenta, or with crusty bread to catch the sauce.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 480 | Protein: 34g | Fat: 31g | Carbs: 11g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 620mg
About the cook who shared this
DeShawn Carter
Week 218 of DeShawn’s 30-year story
· Detroit, Michigan
DeShawn is a thirty-six-year-old single dad, auto plant worker, and a man who didn't learn to cook until his wife left and his five-year-old asked, "Daddy, can you cook something?" He called his mama, who came over with two bags of groceries and spent six months teaching him the basics. Now he's the dad at the cookout who brings the ribs, the guy at the plant whose leftover gumbo starts fights, and living proof that it's never too late to learn.