Chicken-Fried Chops

Jesse turns thirty-two. July 4th, 2019. The birthday without Danny in the lawn chair.

I want to say what it was honestly. We were at Terry's. We were all there — Terry, Hannah, Kai, Luna, Lily, Caleb. Same table, same house, same backyard. The lawn chair was still there, because nobody moved it, because it belonged to the yard the way Danny's recliner belonged to the kitchen. Nobody sat in it. It sat at the edge of the shade where Danny used to sit and it was empty and we all knew it was empty and nobody said anything about it being empty and that is correct. Some presences are best honored by leaving their space intact.

I made fry bread. Same as every year, because Danny asked for it every year, and this year I made it because Danny would have asked for it if he had been able to ask. Terry ate a piece and closed her eyes the way Danny used to close his eyes on the last bite of the ribs. It is in the genes. It is in the teaching. I see Danny in Terry when she eats. I see him in Lily's careful attention. I see him in Caleb sitting in the lawn chair — yes, Caleb sat in the lawn chair, at the end of the evening, just for a little while, with his Coke Zero, watching the fireworks start up the block. I saw it and I did not say anything. That was right too.

Luna sat in my lap for the fireworks. She is three and she has Kai's old relationship to fireworks, which is that they are wrong and loud and not to be trusted, and she holds on with both arms and buries her face in my shirt. I held her and watched the fireworks and thought about thirty-two being the first year without Danny and about thirty-three being what comes after and about all the years stacking up ahead of me, years I get to have that Danny did not get. I am going to use them. I am going to use every one of them.

The fry bread was right for that day because it was Danny’s and because making it was a way of saying his name without saying his name — the hot oil, the dough coming together in my hands, the smell that belongs to every summer he was alive. Chicken-fried chops work the same way for me: you stand at the stove, you keep the oil steady, and the act of frying something for people you love is its own kind of promise. This is the recipe I come back to when I need something that asks for my full attention and gives back warmth, and it is honest enough to share at a table where the empty chair is still the most important one in the yard.

Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 35 min | Servings: 4

Ingredients

4 bone-in pork loin chops (about 3/4 inch thick, 6–8 oz each)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup fine yellow cornmeal
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, divided
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 large eggs
1/3 cup buttermilk
Vegetable oil or lard, for frying (about 1/2 inch depth in pan)

Instructions

Pound and season. Place chops between sheets of plastic wrap and pound gently to even thickness, about 1/2 inch. Season both sides with 1 teaspoon of the salt and all of the black pepper.
Set up the dredge. In a shallow dish, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, garlic powder, smoked paprika, cayenne, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. In a second shallow dish, whisk the eggs and buttermilk together until fully combined.
Dredge the chops. Working one at a time, press each chop firmly into the flour mixture, then dip into the egg wash letting any excess drip off, then press back into the flour mixture, coating thoroughly. Set on a wire rack and let rest 5 minutes so the coating adheres.
Heat the oil. Pour oil into a heavy cast-iron skillet or deep frying pan to a depth of about 1/2 inch. Heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 350°F, or until a pinch of flour dropped in sizzles immediately.
Fry the chops. Working in batches of two, carefully lower chops into the hot oil. Fry without moving for 4–5 minutes until the underside is deep golden brown. Flip once and fry another 3–4 minutes until the second side matches and an instant-read thermometer reads 145°F at the thickest part.
Drain and rest. Transfer finished chops to a clean wire rack set over a baking sheet. Do not stack or cover — resting on a rack keeps the crust crisp. Let rest 3–5 minutes before serving.
Serve. Bring to the table hot. Pairs well with coleslaw, potato wedges, or whatever the yard demands.

Nutrition (per serving)

Chicken-Fried Chops — The Frying That Keeps Danny Present at the Table