January 2020. The year starts with momentum. The January pop-up is already sold out — two hundred covers, gone in an hour. The waitlist is at 300. Lily's Instagram is at 15,000 followers. The Houston food world knows Bobby Tran's name.
But I'm also back at my day job. Monday morning, 7:30 AM, in my truck driving to a client meeting in Katy. Restaurant supply sales. Catalogs and commissary equipment and walk-in coolers. The work that pays the mortgage and funds the retirement account and buys the groceries that become the brisket.
I've been doing this for over twenty years. I'm good at it. I'm the top producer in my region. But driving to Katy on a Monday morning in January, I felt the thing I've been trying not to feel: the pull. The pull toward something bigger. The pop-up is once a month. The pull is every day.
I pulled out the real estate investor's card at a red light. I looked at it. I put it back.
The card is wearing thin. The edges are soft from being handled. Like Mr. Clarence's recipe before I framed it — a piece of paper that carries more weight than paper should, living in a wallet that's already full.
I called Hector. I said, "I keep looking at the card." He said, "Then call the number, Bobby." I said, "A restaurant will either make me or break me." He said, "You've already been broken. You rebuilt. What are you afraid of?" I said, "Failing in front of my kids." He said, "Your kids watched you get sober. They can watch you open a restaurant."
I didn't call. But Hector's words stayed with me all week, the way Bill's words stay with me, the way Ma's words stay with me. The people in my life say things that echo.
Made a simple weeknight dinner: stir-fried egg noodles with shrimp and bok choy. Mi xao — the dish Ma makes when she wants something quick and crispy. The noodles sizzled in the hot wok and the kitchen smelled like garlic and oyster sauce and I stood at the stove and thought: I could do this. Every day. For people.
Maybe. Still maybe. But the maybe is getting louder.
That night with the mi xao, standing at the wok while the garlic hit the oil and everything sizzled up fast and loud — that’s when it stopped feeling like a fantasy. I couldn’t make the noodle dish I described without thinking about Hector’s words the whole time, but what I can share with you is the same energy in a different bowl: Chicken Chop Suey, hot wok, quick hands, the kind of stir-fry that’s done before you can overthink it. Some nights, the best thing you can do is just cook something — let the heat and the noise of the pan drown out the noise in your head for twenty minutes.
Chicken Chop Suey
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 15 min | Total Time: 30 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 1 lb boneless, skinless chicken breast, thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce, divided
- 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
- 1 teaspoon sesame oil
- 1 teaspoon cornstarch
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated
- 1 cup bean sprouts
- 1 cup napa cabbage, thinly sliced
- 1/2 cup celery, sliced on the diagonal
- 1/2 cup water chestnuts, drained and sliced
- 1/2 cup snow peas, trimmed
- 1/4 cup chicken broth
- 1 teaspoon cornstarch mixed with 2 tablespoons cold water (slurry)
- Cooked white rice, for serving
- Sliced green onions, for garnish
Instructions
- Marinate the chicken. In a bowl, toss sliced chicken with 1 tablespoon soy sauce, cornstarch, and sesame oil. Set aside for at least 10 minutes while you prep the vegetables.
- Make the sauce. Stir together the remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce, oyster sauce, and chicken broth in a small bowl. Set aside.
- Sear the chicken. Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat until shimmering. Add the chicken in a single layer and cook undisturbed for 2 minutes, then stir-fry until just cooked through, about 2 more minutes. Transfer to a plate.
- Stir-fry the vegetables. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the wok. Add garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds until fragrant. Add celery and cabbage and cook for 2 minutes. Add snow peas, water chestnuts, and bean sprouts and stir-fry another 2 minutes, keeping everything crisp-tender.
- Combine and finish. Return chicken to the wok. Pour in the sauce and toss to coat everything evenly. Add the cornstarch slurry and stir constantly for 1—2 minutes until the sauce thickens and clings to the chicken and vegetables.
- Serve. Spoon over steamed white rice and garnish with sliced green onions. Serve immediately.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 285 | Protein: 28g | Fat: 10g | Carbs: 18g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 680mg
About the cook who shared this
Bobby Tran
Week 197 of Bobby’s 30-year story
· Houston, Texas
Bobby Tran was born in a refugee camp in Arkansas to parents who fled Saigon with nothing. He grew up in Houston straddling two worlds — Vietnamese at home, Texan everywhere else — and learned to cook from his mother's pho and a neighbor's BBQ smoker. He's a former shrimper, a recovering alcoholic, a divorced dad of three, and the guy who marinates brisket in fish sauce and lemongrass because he doesn't believe in borders, especially when it comes to flavor.