Tet prep. Year of the Ox. February 12, 2021. Ma has been making banh tet since last week — the annual production, now in its fifth year of family participation. Tyler, Emma, and Lily joined her at her house (vaccinations pending but the family bubble has held all year).
The banh tet making has become a workshop. Ma teaches. The kids learn. Each year the rolls get better — Tyler's rice distribution is even, Emma's mung bean is smooth, Lily's wrapping is tight (she's been practicing on YouTube tutorials between family sessions). My wrapping is finally acceptable — Ma only rewrapped two of my rolls this year, down from four last year. Progress is measured in rejected banana leaves.
But the real work of Tet prep isn't the food. It's the cleaning. Ma's tradition: the house must be spotless before Tet. Every surface. Every corner. Every drawer. The theory: you clean out the old year to make room for the new. Practically, it means Bobby Tran spends a Saturday scrubbing his mother's bathroom floor while she stands behind him saying, "You missed a spot."
I always miss a spot. There's always a spot. Mai Tran's standards for cleanliness are the same as her standards for pho: absolute.
The restaurant build-out is moving fast. Tyler installed the service window this week — a pass-through from the kitchen to the dining room with a shelf for plating. He built the frame, installed the window, and caulked the edges. His auto-tech hands building restaurant infrastructure. The skills transfer.
Emma has been working with Diego (our hired cook) on standardizing the recipes. The pop-up quantities need to scale for restaurant service — instead of making 80 bowls of pho, we'll serve pho all day. That means a broth system: two stockpots running continuously, replenished throughout service. Emma designed the system on paper and Diego tested it at the space with water (no broth yet — just workflow).
Lily commissioned the sign. It's being built. Two weeks until installation. The sign that says: Smoke and Fish Sauce. Bobby Tran BBQ.
Ma doesn't know the sign includes Vietnamese text. She doesn't know her food tradition is named on a wall. She'll find out on opening day.
Three months. Three months to opening. The fire is burning. The sign is being built. The banh tet is wrapped. The new year is coming.
Chuc mung nam moi. Let it be the year.
After a week of wrapping banh tet, scrubbing Ma’s bathroom, and watching Diego run water through an imaginary broth system to test throughput, I needed something that kept the same rhythm — fill it, fold it, seal it, move on. Cheesy breakfast egg rolls scratched that exact itch: they’re built for production, they reward a clean assembly line, and they feed a crew that’s already halfway through a Saturday before most people have had coffee. The wrapper discipline alone felt like practice for Tet, and Ma would probably only rewrap two of them.
Cheesy Breakfast Egg Rolls
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 35 min | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 8 egg roll wrappers
- 6 large eggs
- 3 tablespoons whole milk
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
- 1/2 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese
- 4 strips bacon, cooked and crumbled
- 1/4 cup diced green onions
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon water (for sealing wrappers)
- Vegetable oil, for frying (about 2 cups)
- Sour cream or hot sauce, for serving
Instructions
- Scramble the eggs. Whisk together eggs, milk, salt, pepper, and garlic powder in a bowl until fully combined. Melt butter in a nonstick skillet over medium-low heat, add the egg mixture, and cook slowly, folding gently, until just set but still slightly glossy. Remove from heat immediately — carryover heat will finish them. Let cool for 5 minutes.
- Build the filling. In a bowl, combine the scrambled eggs, cheddar, Monterey Jack, crumbled bacon, and green onions. Fold together gently so the cheese begins to melt into the warm eggs.
- Roll the wrappers. Lay one egg roll wrapper on a clean surface in a diamond orientation. Place about 3 tablespoons of filling in the center. Fold the bottom corner up over the filling, fold in the two side corners snugly, then roll upward tightly. Dab the top corner with water and press to seal. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling.
- Heat the oil. Pour vegetable oil into a heavy-bottomed skillet or small saucepan to a depth of about 1 1/2 inches. Heat over medium-high until a small piece of wrapper sizzles immediately on contact, about 350°F.
- Fry in batches. Add 3—4 egg rolls at a time, seam side down. Fry for 2—3 minutes per side, turning once, until deep golden brown and crisp on all sides. Transfer to a wire rack or paper-towel-lined plate. Do not crowd the pan — maintain oil temperature between batches.
- Serve hot. Slice each egg roll on the diagonal if serving plated. Serve immediately with sour cream, hot sauce, or both.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 228 | Protein: 13g | Fat: 13g | Carbs: 14g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 438mg
About the cook who shared this
Bobby Tran
Week 244 of Bobby’s 30-year story
· Houston, Texas
Bobby Tran was born in a refugee camp in Arkansas to parents who fled Saigon with nothing. He grew up in Houston straddling two worlds — Vietnamese at home, Texan everywhere else — and learned to cook from his mother's pho and a neighbor's BBQ smoker. He's a former shrimper, a recovering alcoholic, a divorced dad of three, and the guy who marinates brisket in fish sauce and lemongrass because he doesn't believe in borders, especially when it comes to flavor.