The week before Christmas and the bakery is a battlefield of flour and honey and phyllo. I have been helping Mama every weekend and some weekday evenings, and my hands are raw from washing and rolling and folding. The orders are coming in faster than we can fill them. Mama turns nobody away. She takes every order, adjusts the production schedule in her head — she does not use spreadsheets or computers or even paper, she carries the entire operation in her memory like a woman who has been running a bakery since before Excel existed, which she has — and she produces everything on time, every time. She is seventy-eight years old and she is a machine. A Greek machine made of phyllo and stubbornness and four AM wake-up calls.
I finished my Christmas shopping this week, which involved exactly two stores and thirty minutes because I am a Greek woman and my gifts are food. Everyone gets food. Dimitri gets a bottle of ouzo and a tray of keftedes. Mama gets a new apron and a jar of the expensive Greek olive oil she loves but refuses to buy for herself. Alexander gets a new laptop for school and a container of pastitsio because the boy runs on pastitsio. Sophia gets books and a charm bracelet and a bag of kourabiedes because she has loved kourabiedes since she could chew.
I am bracing for Christmas. The first Christmas without Baba. I have been bracing since October, if I am honest. Every first has been a wave, and I have ridden each one and not drowned, and I will ride this one too. But Christmas is the biggest wave of the year, and the empty chair at Mama's table will be louder on Christmas than it was on any Sunday, because Sundays are routine and Christmas is sacred and the sacred things are where the absence screams loudest.
I made Christopsomo this week — Christ's bread, the traditional Greek Christmas bread decorated with a cross and studded with walnuts and anise. It is not as sweet as tsoureki — it is earthier, spiced with mahlepi and cloves, the kind of bread that fills a house with a smell that is both ancient and warm. I baked two loaves: one for us and one for Mama. I will bring it to her on Sunday. She will say it is good. She will say it is not as good as hers. Both things will be true. I will smile. She will smile. We will eat bread and drink coffee and not talk about the empty chair, because not talking about it is how we prepare to face it. Greek women do not confront grief. They bake around it.
Christopsomo is bread for the sacred, and this week I needed something that could hold the ordinary alongside it — something warm and filling and a little indulgent, the kind of dish you bring to a table where people need to be fed in the way that goes deeper than hunger. Pastitsio is Mama’s Sunday dish, the one she made when the family was big and loud and all the chairs were full, and so I made my version of it this week: easier, quicker, but carrying the same spirit of cinnamon-warmed meat and béchamel-thick comfort. If Christopsomo is how I bake around grief, then this is how I feed through it — same table, same love, just one more way to fill the silence.
Cheesy Baked Ziti (Pastitsio-Inspired)
Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cook Time: 40 minutes | Total Time: 1 hour | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 1 lb ziti pasta
- 1 lb ground beef (or ground lamb for a more traditional Greek flavor)
- 1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 can (28 oz) crushed tomatoes
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
- 1 teaspoon salt, plus more for pasta water
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 15 oz whole-milk ricotta cheese
- 1 large egg
- 2 1/2 cups shredded low-moisture mozzarella, divided
- 3/4 cup grated Parmesan or Kefalotyri cheese, divided
- 2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped (for garnish)
Instructions
- Preheat and prep. Preheat your oven to 375°F. Lightly grease a 9x13-inch baking dish with olive oil and set aside.
- Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook the ziti 2 minutes less than package directions — it will finish cooking in the oven. Drain and toss with a drizzle of olive oil to prevent sticking.
- Build the meat sauce. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more. Add the ground beef and cook, breaking it up, until no longer pink, about 6–8 minutes. Drain any excess fat.
- Season the sauce. Stir in the tomato paste, crushed tomatoes, oregano, cinnamon, allspice, salt, and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 10 minutes until the sauce thickens slightly. Taste and adjust seasoning — the cinnamon should be warm and present but not overpowering.
- Mix the cheese layer. In a medium bowl, stir together the ricotta, egg, 1 cup of the mozzarella, and 1/4 cup of the Parmesan until smooth. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper.
- Assemble the bake. Spread half the cooked ziti in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Dollop and spread the ricotta mixture evenly over the pasta. Spoon the meat sauce over the ricotta layer. Top with the remaining ziti, then scatter the remaining 1 1/2 cups mozzarella and 1/2 cup Parmesan evenly over the top.
- Bake until golden. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and bake an additional 15–20 minutes, until the cheese is bubbling and deeply golden in spots.
- Rest before serving. Let the baked ziti rest for 10 minutes before cutting — this is not optional, no matter how hungry your Alexander is. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 520 | Protein: 31g | Fat: 22g | Carbs: 48g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 680mg