Carrie started high school on Monday. She wore the outfit she finally settled on — which was, in the end, almost identical to the first outfit she'd chosen and then rejected, because the teenage decision-making process is circular by design — and I French-braided her hair at six-thirty AM while she sat at the kitchen table eating toast and reviewing her schedule. Ashley Hall is a small school, and Carrie already knows most of her classmates, but high school is a different country regardless of the size, and she walked out the door with the particular set of her shoulders that I recognize as the Simmons stance: straight-backed, chin up, ready for whatever comes next.
She came home at three-forty and said, "It was fine." Three words. All of high school's first day compressed into two syllables. I said, "Tell me one thing." She said, "My English teacher is a woman from Kyoto who moved here ten years ago. She teaches American literature with a Japanese accent, and she's the most interesting person I've ever met." I said that was a very good first day. She agreed, then went upstairs to write in her journal, and I stood in the kitchen thinking about the ways the world arranges itself — puts a Japanese English teacher in front of a girl who is already dreaming of Japan — and whether that is coincidence or something more deliberate.
James started his junior year with the confidence of a boy who spent his summer selling books and reading Morrison and winning debates. He is sixteen in two months and has begun to occupy space differently — broader, more deliberate, less the boy who used to read at the kitchen table and more the young man who reads at the kitchen table. The reading hasn't changed. The reader has.
At the library, we are transitioning from summer to fall programming. I am planning a Banned Books Week display that will feature every book someone has tried to remove from our shelves, which happens more often than people think and which I resist with the specific fury of a woman who believes that the only thing more dangerous than a controversial book is an empty shelf where a controversial book used to be.
I made Mama's fried chicken for the back-to-school dinner — the kind that takes half a day because you have to brine the chicken overnight and then dredge it twice and fry it in cast iron at exactly the right temperature, which is hot enough to sizzle but not so hot that the coating browns before the inside cooks. Mama's fried chicken is a production, not a recipe, and I make it on occasions that deserve ceremony: first days, last days, birthdays, and any Tuesday when the world feels heavy enough to require the specific comfort of perfectly fried chicken. The children ate it standing at the counter because they were hungry and impatient, and I let them because some rules are worth enforcing and some are not, and the distinction between the two is the closest thing I have to a parenting philosophy.
Mama’s fried chicken is a ceremony, and ceremonies deserve their own recipes — but on a Tuesday when you need comfort without the half-day commitment, I reach for something that borrows the spirit of it: crispy, deeply seasoned, fried in cast iron the same way, just faster and with a little heat at the end. These buffalo chicken bites are what I make when the world is still heavy but dinner needs to happen anyway. Here’s how I make them.
Buffalo Chicken Bites
Prep Time: 30 min (plus overnight brine) | Cook Time: 25 min | Total Time: 55 min active | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 2 1/2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2-inch pieces
- 2 cups buttermilk
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more for brine
- 1 teaspoon garlic powder, divided
- 1 teaspoon onion powder, divided
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika, divided
- 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, divided
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup cornstarch
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
- Vegetable oil or lard for frying (enough to fill cast-iron skillet 1 inch deep)
- 1/2 cup buffalo-style hot sauce (such as Frank’s RedHot)
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Instructions
- Brine overnight. Combine buttermilk, 2 tablespoons kosher salt, 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne in a large bowl or zip-top bag. Add chicken pieces, toss to coat, cover, and refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight.
- Make the dredge. Whisk together flour, cornstarch, 1 tablespoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, 1 teaspoon onion powder, 1 teaspoon smoked paprika, 1 teaspoon black pepper, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne, and dried thyme in a wide, shallow bowl.
- Double dredge. Remove chicken from brine, letting excess drip off but do not pat dry—the wet surface is what makes the coating stick and puff. Press each piece firmly into the flour mixture, shake off the excess, dip it back briefly into the buttermilk brine, then press into the flour a second time. Set on a wire rack and let rest 10 minutes while the oil heats.
- Heat the cast iron. Pour oil into a 12-inch cast-iron skillet to a depth of about 1 inch. Heat over medium-high until a pinch of flour dropped in sizzles immediately but does not blacken—325°F to 350°F on a thermometer. The temperature control is everything here: too cool and the coating absorbs grease, too hot and the outside burns before the chicken cooks through.
- Fry in batches. Working in batches of 7 or 8 pieces, lower the chicken into the oil and fry 5 to 6 minutes per side, turning once, until deep golden brown and the internal temperature reads 165°F. Do not crowd the pan. Return oil to temperature between batches. Transfer finished pieces to a clean wire rack set over a baking sheet—never to paper towels, which create steam and soften the crust.
- Make the buffalo gloss. Whisk hot sauce and melted butter together in a large bowl. When all the chicken is fried, add it to the bowl and toss to coat, or serve the sauce on the side for those who want their coating unadulterated.
- Serve. Serve immediately. These are best eaten standing at the counter while they’re still crackling.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 480 | Protein: 38g | Fat: 22g | Carbs: 32g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 890mg