BLT Wraps — The Kind of Sunday That Asks Nothing of You

The follow-up Chronicle review hit Sunday. Five stars this time. Five out of five. They added a star. The headline: "Smoke and Nuoc Mam, one year in: Houston's essential restaurant." Diane wrote it with the deeper understanding of a writer who has watched the restaurant grow. She mentioned the cookbook deal. She mentioned that I had retired and was now a "silent partner who is loud about brisket on his blog." She wrote the line: "Bobby Tran is what Houston food is supposed to be — three cultures in one apron, learned by hand, taught by mother, never apologized for." I read the line ten times. I am not embarrassed about it the way I should be. The line is mostly true.

The phones at the restaurant exploded again. Lily took the day off (her newly-protected Sunday) and spent it at my house with James and Smokey, eating leftover Memorial Day food and not answering her phone. The hosts and managers handled the calls. The reservation book filled out through November in twelve hours.

Mai called me from her house at 4 PM Sunday. She had read the article — Linh had printed it for her. She said, "Bao. They wrote about you." I said, "They wrote about Lily and James." She said, "And you. Three cultures. The brisket. Your blog." I said, "Yes." She said, "I am proud." Two words. They are her highest words. I sat on the back porch with Smokey afterward and didn't say anything to anyone for an hour. Smokey understood. Dogs do not require sentences.

Lily spent that Sunday the right way — at my house, phones off, eating whatever was left from Memorial Day without ceremony or obligation. That is the meal I keep thinking about. Not the five-star review, not the reservation book, not the two words my mother said to me on the phone. I keep thinking about Lily and James sitting at my back table, wrapping cold bacon and tomato into something simple and not requiring anything more of the day. A BLT wrap is not a restaurant dish. It is a Sunday dish. It is what you make when the week has already asked everything it is going to ask.

BLT Wraps

Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 10 minutes | Total Time: 20 minutes | Servings: 4

Ingredients

• 4 large flour tortillas (10-inch)
• 8 strips thick-cut bacon
• 2 cups romaine lettuce, chopped
• 2 medium tomatoes, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Instructions

1. Cook the bacon. In a large skillet over medium heat, cook bacon strips 4—5 minutes per side until crisp. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Once cool, break or chop each strip in half.
2. Make the spread. In a small bowl, stir together mayonnaise, garlic powder, black pepper, salt, and lemon juice until smooth.
3. Warm the tortillas. Lay each tortilla flat in the dry skillet over low heat for 30 seconds per side, just until pliable. Alternatively, wrap in a damp paper towel and microwave 20 seconds.
4. Assemble. Spread a generous layer of the seasoned mayo across the center of each tortilla. Layer on the chopped romaine, then tomato slices, then bacon. Season the tomatoes lightly with a pinch of salt.
5. Wrap and serve. Fold in the sides of the tortilla, then roll from the bottom up tightly. Slice on the diagonal and serve immediately, or wrap in foil for a no-fuss picnic-style lunch.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 420 | Protein: 14g | Fat: 26g | Carbs: 34g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 780mg