The "Counter Space" memoir is doing something I didn't expect: changing the food bank. Not the program — the program is the same, the classes are the same, the recipe cards are the same. But the book is bringing attention. A national food bank association contacted Carol about our model. National. Not Oklahoma, not regional — national. They want to feature our cooking class program in their annual report. They want to study the "Counter Space model" (they're calling it a model, like it's a business strategy and not a girl with a cast iron skillet who started teaching people to cook because she'd been doing it since she was fourteen).
Carol asked me to participate in a phone call with the national team. I sat at my food bank desk and talked to three people in Washington, D.C., about recipe cards and canned goods and the math of feeding a family on $5 a night. They took notes. They said, "This is scalable." They said, "This could work in every food bank in the country." I said, "It's not complicated. You show up with cans. You teach people to cook with the cans. You give them recipe cards. You go home." They said, "But the philosophy." I said, "The philosophy is: dinner is not optional." They wrote that down.
Dinner is not optional. Mama's words. In a national food bank report. Shelly Moreland, sixty-three, retired Dollar General manager, gardener, grandmother, knitter of blankets — her words are going to be in a national report about food insecurity. I called her. She said, "What report?" I said, "A national one. About our cooking classes." She said, "What did they say about the classes?" I said, "They said dinner is not optional." She said, "That's my line." I said, "I know, Mama. That's why it's in the book." She said, "Hmm." Then she said, "Well, it's true." Then she hung up to go water her sunflowers. Shelly Moreland, national food policy influencer and sunflower gardener. The woman contains multitudes.
After that phone call with the team in Washington, I kept thinking about what makes this whole program work — it’s never been the fancy ingredients or the complicated techniques. It’s the moment someone realizes that a single onion, something they can buy for under a dollar, can become the centerpiece of a meal people actually lean in to eat. That’s exactly why I keep coming back to this blooming onion recipe when I want to demonstrate what “dinner is not optional” really means in practice: you take the most ordinary thing in the pantry and you treat it like it matters, because it does.
Blooming Onions
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 25 min | Total Time: 45 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 1 large sweet onion (Vidalia preferred), about 1 lb
- 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch
- 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
- 1 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1 teaspoon onion powder
- 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to finish
- 2 large eggs
- 1 cup whole milk
- 4 cups vegetable oil, for frying
Instructions
- Cut the onion. Slice about 1/2 inch off the top of the onion and peel away the outer skin. Place the onion cut-side down on your cutting board. Starting 1/2 inch from the root, make 12—16 evenly spaced downward cuts all the way through to the board, working around the entire onion to create the “petals.” Do not cut through the root — it holds everything together.
- Open and soak. Turn the onion cut-side up and gently spread the petals apart with your fingers. Place it in a large bowl of ice water and let it soak for at least 15 minutes. This helps the petals separate and curl outward. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels.
- Make the seasoned flour. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornstarch, paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne, black pepper, and salt until evenly combined.
- Make the egg wash. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk until smooth.
- Coat the onion. Hold the onion over the flour bowl and spoon the seasoned flour down into every crevice, turning and shaking gently to coat all surfaces. Dip the entire onion into the egg wash, letting the excess drip off. Return it to the flour mixture for a second coat, pressing flour between the petals to build a thick, even crust.
- Heat the oil. Pour the vegetable oil into a large, deep pot or Dutch oven — you need at least 4 inches of oil. Heat over medium-high heat to 375°F, checking with a thermometer.
- Fry the onion. Using a wide slotted spoon or a wire spider, carefully lower the onion cut-side down into the hot oil. Fry for 10—12 minutes, turning once halfway through, until deep golden brown and crispy all over. Adjust heat as needed to maintain 375°F.
- Drain and season. Lift the onion from the oil and drain on a paper towel—lined plate for 2 minutes. Sprinkle immediately with a pinch of salt.
- Serve. Transfer to a serving plate and serve right away with your favorite dipping sauce — a simple mix of mayonnaise, ketchup, horseradish, and a pinch of cayenne works perfectly.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 315 | Protein: 8g | Fat: 13g | Carbs: 43g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 590mg