Mother's Day. My first Mother's Day with a man who planned something. Every other Mother's Day has been: Lorraine comes over, I cook for both of us (ironic — the mother cooks on Mother's Day because the mother is also the cook, the planner, the everything), the kids give me handmade cards, and I go to bed early because Mother's Day is exhausting when you're both the honored and the honorer.
This year, Terrence planned. He came over Saturday night after the kids were asleep and set the table — MY table, in MY kitchen — with a tablecloth I didn't know I owned (he bought it), candles (he bought those too), and a handwritten menu card that said: "Mother's Day Brunch, Sunday, May 12th, Chef Terrence, Serving: French toast, bacon, fruit salad, coffee (for the queen)." FOR THE QUEEN. He called me a queen on a menu card in his handwriting and I almost lost it right there at 10 PM on a Saturday.
Sunday morning, I woke up to the smell of bacon and the sound of Terrence cursing quietly at the stove because the French toast was sticking. Chloe was helping — she was seven and in charge of the fruit salad, which was mostly strawberries because strawberries are the only fruit she trusts. Jayden was sitting on the floor eating a banana and watching the chaos like a tiny food critic who hasn't been asked for his opinion but has one anyway.
The French toast was perfect. PERFECT. Thick-cut brioche (where did he find brioche in Hermitage?), soaked overnight, vanilla and cinnamon, cooked in butter until golden. I said, "Where did you learn this?" He said, "YouTube." He YouTubed French toast for me. He watched a video and practiced and failed and tried again because he wanted to make Mother's Day mean something different this year. Because he wanted me to sit at my own table and be served. Because he knows — because I told him in the basement talk, the foundation talk — that I have been serving people since I was eleven years old and nobody has ever served me back.
Mama came for lunch. I made her a plate. She looked at the tablecloth and the candles (still out from brunch) and Terrence washing dishes in my kitchen and she said nothing. She ate. She looked at me once, a long look, the kind that contains an entire conversation. The look said: this is what it's supposed to be. This is what I wanted for you. This is a man in your kitchen washing your dishes and you are sitting down and this is right. She didn't say any of that. She just ate her lunch and told Chloe the fruit salad needed more variety. Classic Lorraine.
Terrence’s brioche French toast will live in my memory forever — the man YouTubed his way into my heart through my own kitchen — but when I want to recreate that feeling of a special-occasion brunch that looks like it took real skill and effort, this Berry Puff Pancake is my go-to. It puffs up dramatic and golden in the oven, it’s crowned with the kind of bright, beautiful berries Chloe would absolutely approve of, and the whole thing lands on the table looking like somebody really planned something — which is exactly the feeling I’m chasing every time I make it.
Berry Puff Pancake
Prep Time: 10 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 30 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 3 large eggs
- 3/4 cup whole milk
- 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 cup fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced
- 1/2 cup fresh blueberries
- 1/2 cup fresh raspberries
- 2 tablespoons powdered sugar, for dusting
- Maple syrup or honey, for serving
Instructions
- Preheat the oven. Place a 10-inch oven-safe skillet (cast iron works best) in the oven and preheat to 425°F. Letting the pan heat up with the oven is what gives the pancake its signature puff.
- Make the batter. In a blender or large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, flour, granulated sugar, vanilla extract, and salt until completely smooth with no lumps. Let the batter rest for 5 minutes while the oven finishes preheating.
- Butter the hot pan. Carefully remove the hot skillet from the oven using oven mitts. Add the butter and swirl immediately — it should sizzle and melt fast. Make sure the butter coats the bottom and partway up the sides.
- Pour and bake. Pour the batter into the buttered skillet all at once. Return immediately to the oven. Bake for 18–22 minutes, until the pancake is puffed and deeply golden at the edges. Do not open the oven door during baking or the puff will collapse.
- Top with berries. Remove the skillet from the oven — the pancake will begin to deflate slightly as it cools, which is normal. Pile the strawberries, blueberries, and raspberries into the center.
- Finish and serve. Dust generously with powdered sugar. Cut into wedges right from the skillet and serve immediately with maple syrup or honey on the side.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 285 | Protein: 9g | Fat: 12g | Carbs: 35g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 210mg