Valentine's Day is next week and I'm already planning because Connie told me last year that "I forgot" is not an acceptable Valentine's Day message, even though I didn't forget — I just didn't plan, which is apparently the same thing. This year I'm ahead. I'm going to make Connie a dinner. Not a big production like the anniversary steak — something simpler, warmer, the kind of meal that says "I've been thinking about you" rather than "I spent money to prove I was thinking about you."
I'm making her shrimp and grits. Not Appalachian, exactly — shrimp and grits is a Lowcountry dish, South Carolina, coastal — but it's Southern and it's special and Connie loves it. She first had it on a trip to Charleston in 2010, the one vacation we've taken in twenty-five years that wasn't to Evarts, and she talked about the shrimp and grits at that restaurant for six months afterward. I've been trying to recreate it ever since.
The grits: stone-ground grits, not instant, not quick-cook. Cook them in a mixture of water and whole milk with butter, salt, and a handful of sharp cheddar stirred in at the end. They should be creamy, not stiff. If your grits can hold a shape, they're too thick. Good grits pour slowly, like warm velvet.
The shrimp: large shrimp, peeled and deveined. Sauté bacon until crispy, remove, cook the shrimp in the bacon grease with garlic, a splash of chicken broth, and a squeeze of lemon. It takes three minutes. You're building layers of flavor in one pan — the bacon, the garlic, the shrimp, the acid of the lemon, the richness of the broth. Pour the shrimp and the pan sauce over the grits. Crumble the bacon on top. Sliced green onions if you've got them. That's it.
I practiced the recipe this week — made it on Tuesday night as a "test run," which Connie saw through immediately but ate without complaint because the shrimp was good and the grits were right and she's smart enough to accept a practice dinner without making me feel self-conscious about the fact that I need practice.
In other news: it snowed on Saturday. Two inches, which in Kentucky is enough to close schools and empty grocery stores and make everyone drive as if the roads are made of butter. Clay shoveled the driveway without being asked, which I'm going to remember as evidence that he was raised right, and then he threw a snowball at the mailman, which I'm going to forget because selective memory is a parenting skill.
Betty called. She's fine. The cold is gone. She made a pot of chicken and dumplings and ate on it for a week. She asked about the cookbook idea. I told her I was still thinking about it. She said "Don't think too long. I'm seventy-six." She meant it as a joke. It didn't land as a joke. It landed as a timer going off in a quiet room.
The shrimp and grits is Connie’s recipe — the one I’m still perfecting, the one that started in Charleston and lives in her memory like a standard I’m quietly working to meet. But if you want to bring that same spirit to your own table — the slow attention, the layering of flavor, the creamy finish that rewards patience — asparagus risotto is its closest cousin. You stir it the same way you’d stir grits: steadily, without rushing, with something warm on the stove and someone worth cooking for nearby. It’s the kind of dish that turns a Tuesday into an occasion, and an occasion into something she’ll still mention six months later.
Asparagus Risotto
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 30 minutes | Total Time: 40 minutes | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
- 1 lb fresh asparagus, tough ends removed, cut into 1-inch pieces
- 5 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth, kept warm
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- Zest of 1 lemon
- Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish (optional)
Instructions
- Warm the broth. Pour the broth into a medium saucepan and set over low heat. Keep it at a gentle simmer throughout cooking — adding cold broth to hot risotto will seize the starch and slow everything down.
- Sauté the aromatics. In a wide, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more.
- Toast the rice. Add the Arborio rice to the pot and stir to coat in the oil and butter. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the edges of each grain turn slightly translucent. This step builds the nutty base flavor — don’t skip it.
- Add the wine. Pour in the white wine and stir until it is fully absorbed, about 1 to 2 minutes. The sizzle and steam are good signs.
- Build the risotto. Add the warm broth one ladle at a time (roughly 1/2 cup per addition), stirring frequently and waiting until each addition is nearly absorbed before adding the next. This process takes about 18 to 22 minutes. Stay close to the stove.
- Add the asparagus. When the rice is about 5 minutes from done (it should be tender but still have a slight bite at the center), stir in the asparagus pieces. Continue adding broth and stirring until the asparagus is bright green and just tender and the rice is creamy and cooked through.
- Finish and season. Remove from heat. Stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter, the Parmesan, lemon zest, salt, and pepper. The risotto should be loose and flowing — not stiff. If it holds a mound, stir in another splash of warm broth.
- Serve immediately. Spoon into warm shallow bowls. Top with extra Parmesan and fresh parsley if using. Risotto waits for no one — call everyone to the table before you finish the last stir.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 420 | Protein: 14g | Fat: 14g | Carbs: 58g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 520mg