Late July and I took Miya to Uwajimaya, which is always a pilgrimage and never just a grocery trip. She rides in the cart now — three and a half, legs dangling, pointing at everything: the rows of instant ramen with cartoon characters, the mochi ice cream in the freezer, the dried seaweed in packages she wants to open immediately. I buy kombu and bonito flakes and white miso and a bag of rice crackers for Miya and a bottle of yuzu ponzu that Fumiko never used but that I have adopted as my own. The ponzu is mine. The miso is Fumiko's. The kitchen holds both.
I made cold tofu with toppings — hiyayakko — the simplest Japanese summer dish. A block of silken tofu, cold from the refrigerator, topped with grated ginger, sliced green onion, bonito flakes, and a drizzle of soy sauce. That is the entire recipe. It takes two minutes. It is perfect. Fumiko ate this every hot day and never understood why anyone would make something more complicated when something this simple existed. I am starting to agree with her. Simplicity is not laziness. Simplicity is confidence — the confidence to let the ingredient speak, to stop adding, to trust that enough is enough.
Ken called from Sacramento. We talk every two weeks now, which is more than we've ever talked. The conversations are short — Ken's conversations are always short — but they have changed since Fumiko died. There is a space in Ken's life where his mother used to be, and he is filling it, slowly, by talking to me. Not about feelings — Nakamuras do not talk about feelings — but about his garden, about the daikon, about the weather. The garden is the language. The daikon is the sentence. I listen and translate silently: "I miss her. I am alone. I am glad you call."
Miya said a word in Japanese this week — "oishii" — after eating the hiyayakko. She said it naturally, the way bilingual children say things, without knowing they've switched languages. I almost dropped my chopsticks. She heard that word from me, from Fumiko, from the kitchen air itself, and she used it correctly, spontaneously, at three years old. The word means "delicious." The word means the inheritance is working. The word means the chain holds.
The blog has a new reader who comments every week — someone named Lin who writes thoughtful, specific responses about my posts. Lin said this week: "You write about food the way poets write about weather — it's never just about the thing itself." I read the comment three times. I saved it. It is the kind of feedback that makes you feel seen in a way that is both beautiful and terrifying, because being seen means someone is looking, and being looked at has always made me want to hide.
Fumiko’s lesson—that simplicity is confidence, not laziness—stayed with me long after the hiyayakko was gone. When I wanted something to sit alongside it, something that carried the same spirit of restraint and clean flavor, I kept coming back to this cold Asian asparagus salad: crisp, bright, dressed with sesame and soy, and done before Miya can ask me what I’m making. It is the kind of dish that trusts the ingredient, just like she taught me. Just like “oishii” said everything that needed saying.
Asian Asparagus Salad
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 5 minutes | Total Time: 15 minutes + chilling | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 1 lb fresh asparagus, tough ends trimmed
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
- 1 tablespoon sesame oil
- 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated
- 1 teaspoon honey or sugar
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
- 2 green onions, thinly sliced
- 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
Instructions
- Blanch the asparagus. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus and cook for 2–3 minutes, until bright green and just tender-crisp. Do not overcook—the asparagus should still have bite.
- Shock and chill. Transfer the asparagus immediately to a bowl of ice water and let sit for 2 minutes to stop cooking and lock in color. Drain and pat dry, then arrange on a serving platter or place in the refrigerator to chill fully.
- Make the dressing. In a small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, grated ginger, honey, and minced garlic until well combined.
- Dress and finish. Once the asparagus is cold, drizzle the dressing evenly over the top. Scatter the sliced green onions and toasted sesame seeds over the asparagus. Add red pepper flakes if using.
- Serve cold. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to an hour before serving. The flavors deepen as it sits.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 75 | Protein: 3g | Fat: 4g | Carbs: 7g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 480mg