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Apple Pie Bread with Streusel Topping — Betty’s Apples, Carried Forward

After last week's post — the collapse anniversary — I got more messages and comments than I've gotten since I started this thing. People wrote to tell me their own stories: miners who'd survived roof falls, wives who'd waited at the mine entrance, children who grew up knowing their father might not come home. A woman from Pike County said her husband was killed in a mine collapse in 1997 and she's been making his mother's soup beans every Monday since because it makes her feel like he's still there. I read that three times and had to get up and walk around the yard.

I didn't mean to crack myself open like that. I sat down to write about September 12th the way I write about everything — matter-of-fact, no-frills — and what came out was something else. Something that had been sitting in me for twenty-five years and finally found a door. Connie read it and didn't say anything for a long time and then said "I didn't know you thought about the chicken." I said "It wasn't about the chicken." She said "I know." We sat with that for a while.

This week, I'm going back to food because food is where I'm steady. Let's talk about apple butter, because it's September and the apples are coming in and apple butter is what Betty made when the apples got ahead of her, which happened every year because the tree behind the house produced more apples than six children and two adults could eat, and Betty never wasted anything. Not a bruised apple. Not a wormy one. Especially not a wormy one — you just cut the worm part out and use the rest. Betty was composting before composting was a thing. She just called it "not being wasteful."

Apple butter in a slow cooker: peel and core about four pounds of apples — any kind, a mix is fine. Put them in the slow cooker with a cup of sugar (less if the apples are sweet), a cup of apple cider, two teaspoons of cinnamon, half teaspoon of allspice, a pinch of cloves, a pinch of nutmeg. Cook on low for ten hours, stirring a few times. The apples will break down into a thick, dark, caramel-colored butter that smells like October compressed into a jar. Betty didn't have a slow cooker — she made hers on the stove, stirring for hours, which is how you get arm muscles that could wrestle a bear — but the slow cooker method is forgiving and produces the same result with less effort and fewer bear-wrestling muscles.

Apple butter on a biscuit is about as close to perfect as breakfast gets. Apple butter on toast. Apple butter with pork chops. Apple butter eaten from the jar with a spoon at midnight when you can't sleep because September is a complicated month and the apples are sweet and the kitchen is quiet and the spoon is right there.

Clay had another good game Friday. Bryan Station beat Dunbar 17-10 and Clay had eight tackles and a forced fumble. The defensive coordinator says he's the best sophomore — well, he's technically a junior now since school started, and I keep forgetting because in my mind Clay is perpetually twelve — the best junior linebacker they've had in years. I don't let myself get too excited about football futures because I've seen too many boys peak in high school. But I let myself be proud. That's different from excited. Proud is quieter. Proud is watching your son do something well and not needing it to go anywhere, just needing it to be this, right now, under the lights on a Friday night. That's enough.

Writing about Betty’s apple butter this week put me in the right headspace to bake something rather than just preserve something — and when I had a few apples left over after the slow cooker batch, this Apple Pie Bread with Streusel Topping is exactly where they went. It’s the same instinct Betty had: apples are coming in, don’t let them sit, make something that the house will smell like all afternoon. After a heavy few weeks, I needed that smell. I needed to stand in the kitchen and do something with my hands that ended with a loaf on the counter and a kid walking through the door asking what’s that.

Apple Pie Bread with Streusel Topping

Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cook Time: 60 minutes | Total Time: 1 hour 20 minutes | Servings: 10 slices

Ingredients

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/2 cup sour cream or plain yogurt
  • 2 cups peeled, cored, and diced apples (about 2 medium apples — any variety or a mix)
  • Streusel Topping:
  • 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup packed brown sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Instructions

  1. Preheat and prep. Preheat your oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x5-inch loaf pan and line it with a strip of parchment paper for easy removal.
  2. Make the streusel. In a small bowl, combine the flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon for the streusel. Work in the cold butter with your fingers or a fork until the mixture resembles coarse, clumpy crumbs. Set aside in the refrigerator while you make the batter.
  3. Combine the dry ingredients. In a medium bowl, whisk together the 2 cups flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice.
  4. Cream the butter and sugar. In a large bowl, beat the softened butter and granulated sugar together until light and fluffy, about 2–3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each. Mix in the vanilla extract.
  5. Finish the batter. Add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture in two additions, alternating with the sour cream, and stir just until combined — do not overmix. Fold in the diced apples.
  6. Assemble and bake. Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan and spread it evenly. Scatter the cold streusel topping evenly over the surface. Bake for 55–65 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and the streusel is golden brown. If the top browns too quickly, tent loosely with foil after the first 40 minutes.
  7. Cool before slicing. Let the bread cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then lift it out using the parchment and transfer to a wire rack. Cool at least 30 minutes before slicing — this keeps the crumb from falling apart. It slices cleanest when fully cooled, but no one is going to wait that long and that’s fine.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 295 | Protein: 4g | Fat: 13g | Carbs: 41g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 195mg

Craig Hensley
About the cook who shared this
Craig Hensley
Week 26 of Craig’s 30-year story · Lexington, Kentucky
Craig is a retired coal miner from Harlan County, Kentucky — a man who spent twenty years underground and seventeen hours trapped in a collapsed tunnel before he was twenty-four. He moved his family to Lexington when the mine closed, learned to cook his mama Betty's Appalachian recipes from memory because she never wrote them down, and now he's trying to get them on paper before they're lost. He says "reckon" and "fixing to" and means both. His bourbon-glazed ribs are, according to his wife Connie, "acceptable" — which is the highest praise she gives.

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