Thanksgiving. Year four. Twenty-four people. Jim and Diane arrived Wednesday and Jim immediately inspected the outdoor kitchen ("New smoker cover," he noted, because Jim notices everything and comments on nothing except the things nobody expects him to notice). Diane went to the children and Diego showed her his dinosaur collection (now up to seven, because birthdays and Christmases are dinosaur acquisition opportunities) and she said, "What lovely dinosaurs," and he said, "They eat people," and she said, "How nice," because Diane is from Minnesota and nothing surprises her.
Wednesday night: tamale production. One hundred and twenty-eight tamales this year (Elena got ambitious). The assembly line: Elena on masa, me on fillings, Jessica and Diane on spreading, Sofia on folding (she is now the fastest folder in the family, which she announced with the humility of an Olympic medalist). Diego contributed by eating masa and one complete assembled tamale that he stole from the cooling rack when nobody was watching. Roberto and Jim sat in the living room watching football and contributing nothing to the tamale effort, which is their traditional Thanksgiving Eve role and which they execute with unwavering commitment.
Thursday: the table. Turkey, carne asada, tamales, mashed potatoes, rice, beans, cranberry sauce with bourbon (Jim, already slightly red), Elena's guacamole, cornbread, and four pies. Diane's apple pie (the champion, the undisputed, the pie that I will never compete with because some battles are unwinnable). Pecan pie (my contribution). Pumpkin pie (Jessica's contribution, from a box, and she owns this without shame). And a new entry: a tres leches cheesecake that Elena invented this year by combining her tres leches recipe with a cheesecake base, which is the most extraordinary dessert I have ever eaten and which I immediately asked her to make for every future holiday until the end of time.
Grace: Roberto in Spanish. Jim in English. Sofia in both, because she is the bridge between these two families and she knows it even if she cannot articulate it. Diego said "more" before grace was finished. We ate for two hours.
The TV segment aired on Monday — I forgot to write about it because Thanksgiving consumed everything. The segment was three and a half minutes on the 6 PM news. They used the firehouse footage, the backyard footage, the Roberto interview. My phone blew up. The firehouse blew up. People I have not spoken to in years called to say they saw me on TV. Roberto recorded it on his DVR and watched it three times. Elena called, crying. The world saw what I have been doing in the backyard for four years. And the world seemed to like it.
Elena’s tres leches cheesecake is going to haunt me in the best possible way — I already know I’ll be asking her to make it at every holiday until one of us is no longer standing. But the dessert table that Thursday reminded me that apple and cinnamon and warmth are the backbone of every great holiday spread, which is exactly why this Apple Fritter Cake has been living in my head since then. It’s the kind of thing Diane might have brought alongside that unbeatable apple pie — familiar enough to feel like home, ambitious enough to earn its place at the table.
Apple Fritter Cake
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 45 min | Total Time: 1 hr 5 min | Servings: 12
Ingredients
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 1/2 tsp baking powder
- 1/2 tsp baking soda
- 1/2 tsp salt
- 1 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon, divided
- 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
- 3/4 cup granulated sugar
- 2 large eggs
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 1/2 cup sour cream
- 1/2 cup whole milk
- 2 medium apples, peeled, cored, and diced (about 2 cups)
- 1/4 cup brown sugar, packed
- For the glaze: 1 cup powdered sugar, 2–3 tbsp milk, 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
Instructions
- Preheat and prep. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x13-inch baking pan and set aside.
- Make the apple mixture. In a small bowl, toss diced apples with brown sugar and 1/2 tsp cinnamon. Set aside to macerate while you prepare the batter.
- Mix dry ingredients. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and remaining 1 tsp cinnamon.
- Cream butter and sugar. In a large bowl, beat softened butter and granulated sugar together with a hand mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
- Add eggs and vanilla. Beat in eggs one at a time, then mix in vanilla extract until fully incorporated.
- Combine wet and dry. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture in three additions, alternating with the sour cream and milk (begin and end with flour). Mix just until no dry streaks remain — do not overmix.
- Fold in apples. Gently fold the apple mixture (including any released juices) into the batter with a spatula.
- Bake. Pour batter into the prepared pan and spread evenly. Bake for 40–45 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and the top is golden brown.
- Make the glaze. While the cake cools for 10 minutes, whisk together powdered sugar, milk, and vanilla until smooth and pourable. Add milk one tablespoon at a time to reach desired consistency.
- Glaze and serve. Drizzle glaze generously over the warm cake. Allow to set for 5 minutes before slicing and serving.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 310 | Protein: 4g | Fat: 10g | Carbs: 52g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 185mg