Fourth of July. The annual cookout, the sixth year in a row at Bobby's house, the first on land I legally own. I hung a small Vietnamese flag next to the American flag on the porch — something I've never done before but felt compelled to this year. The two flags together: the country that took us in and the country we came from. Both are mine. Both made me.
Thirty people in the yard. The neighborhood crew, the family crew, the AA crew (Bill, Kevin, two newer members). Tyler and Jessica drove from Midland — Jessica at five months pregnant, radiant and hungry, which is the ideal state for a guest at Bobby Tran's cookout. She ate a full rack of ribs, two slices of brisket, and an amount of smoked queso that I will not disclose out of respect for her privacy.
Ava is walking confidently now — not just toddling but walking with purpose, targeting food, people, and the smoker in that order. She walked up to the smoker, pointed at it, and said, "HOT." Her first safety-related word. I was so proud I almost forgot to be relieved. She understands the smoker is hot. This is the most important lesson in this household. The second most important lesson is that patience produces brisket. She'll learn that one later.
James made a special Fourth dish: suya-spiced smoked corn, which was my Vietnamese-Mexican elote concept adapted with his Nigerian suya blend. The result was extraordinary — smoky, nutty, spicy, with the peanut from the suya adding a richness that the original lacked. Three cultures on one ear of corn. I said, "This is going on the Smoke and Nuoc Mam menu." He said, "I already named it: Suya Corn." I said, "Simple." He said, "The best names are."
Mai sat in her chair under the crape myrtle and FaceTimed Huong during the cookout. She turned the phone around to show Huong the yard, the food, the people. Huong said, "Save me some brisket." Mai said, "Come get it yourself." The pho argument has expanded to include brisket. The territory of sisterly disagreement is growing. This is progress.
James naming that suya corn with such confidence — “Simple. The best names are.” — stayed with me long after the yard cleared out. It reminded me that the best grill food always has roots somewhere, always carries a tradition, and always tastes better when it’s shared with thirty people who are genuinely hungry. Adana kabob is that same energy for me: a spiced, hand-formed, fire-cooked thing that belongs on any grill where people are gathered with purpose. If suya corn is James’s contribution to the rotation, this one’s mine.
Adana Kabob
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 12 min | Total Time: 32 min | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 2 lbs ground lamb (or 80/20 ground beef)
- 1/2 medium yellow onion, grated and excess moisture squeezed out
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 tbsp red pepper paste (or 1 tbsp tomato paste + 1 tsp crushed red pepper)
- 1 1/2 tsp Aleppo pepper (or 3/4 tsp smoked paprika + 3/4 tsp crushed red pepper)
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- 1/2 tsp ground sumac
- 1/2 tsp black pepper
- 1 tsp kosher salt
- 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- Flat metal skewers (wide, at least 12 inches)
Instructions
- Mix the meat. Combine ground lamb, grated onion, garlic, red pepper paste, Aleppo pepper, cumin, coriander, sumac, black pepper, salt, parsley, and olive oil in a large bowl. Mix firmly with your hands for 2–3 minutes until the mixture is cohesive and slightly sticky. Do not undermix — the texture is key to the kabob holding on the skewer.
- Chill. Cover and refrigerate the mixture for at least 30 minutes (up to overnight). Cold meat forms around the skewer more easily.
- Form the kabobs. Divide the mixture into 6 equal portions. With damp hands, press and mold each portion firmly around a flat skewer, forming a log shape roughly 6–7 inches long and 1 inch thick. Press firmly to eliminate air pockets.
- Preheat the grill. Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high (about 400°F). Brush grates with oil. For best results, use a charcoal grill with hardwood lump charcoal to echo that smoky suya flavor.
- Grill. Place skewers on the grill and cook for 5–6 minutes per side, turning once, until charred in spots and cooked through (internal temp 160°F for lamb, 165°F for beef). Do not move them constantly — let the char develop.
- Rest and serve. Remove from the grill and rest for 3 minutes. Slide off skewers and serve with warm flatbread, grilled tomatoes and peppers, fresh herbs, and a squeeze of lemon.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 320 | Protein: 26g | Fat: 22g | Carbs: 4g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 480mg