I baked at 6 AM because the house was too quiet and the oven is the surest way I know to make a house feel inhabited. The oven generates heat, smell, the small ticks of metal expanding, the predictable rise of dough on the counter, the timer I can hear from three rooms away. The oven is, in some real sense, my roommate. I have not told this to my children. They would gently suggest something. The oven and I prefer no suggestions.
Erik came over Sunday. He chopped wood for me without being asked — the pile by the back door was getting low, and Erik had noticed, and Erik had brought his ax, and Erik had spent forty-five minutes splitting and stacking and not making a single comment about how the wood needed to be done. He drank coffee. He left. The whole visit was forty-five minutes. It was perfect. Erik is a perfect brother in the specific way of Scandinavian brothers — silent, useful, present.
Mamma called Tuesday. Her voice was small but her mind was sharp. She wanted to talk about Pappa, of all people. About the time he fixed her bicycle in 1962. About how he always said "there" when he had finished a job, the same way every time, the small declarative finality. She had not thought of this in years, she said. The memory came to her in the kitchen, while she was peeling an apple. I listened. I did not interrupt. The memory was unprovoked and total. The memory is everything.
I cooked Cardamom bread this week. The braided enriched loaf. The kitchen smells like Christmas-coming a month early.
The Damiano Center on Thursday. Gerald told me a long story about a bus accident he had survived in 1988 in Duluth. He had not told me before. He has been telling me more stories lately. I am the audience he has been gathering, slowly, over years. I listen. I do not interrupt. The stories are the gift he is giving.
Pappa would have liked this week. The fish were biting. The weather was clear. The Vikings won. He would have approved of all three. Pappa was a man of small approvals — he did not say much, but he made a small grunt of acknowledgment when something was right, and the grunt was the highest praise he gave. I miss the grunt. I miss being given the grunt.
It is enough. Paul is not here. Mamma is not here. Pappa is not here. Erik is not here. They are all here in the kitchen, in the smell, in the taste, in the wooden spoon and the bread pans and the marble slab. The dead are not where the body went. The dead are in the kitchen.
I keep a small notebook on the kitchen counter — green spiral-bound, from the drugstore. I write in it most days. The notebook holds the things I do not want to forget — Erik's stories about Pappa, Karin's notes about Mormor, Sophie's first words about her babies, the recipes I have changed slightly and want to remember in their changed form. The notebook is a small museum. The museum will go to Anna eventually, and then to Sophie, and then to Sophie's daughter Ingrid, and then onward.
It is enough.
When the cardamom bread was cooling and the kitchen had settled into that particular hush of a job well done, I found myself thinking about the other things the oven knows how to hold — the recipes that smell like gathering, like everyone in the same room, like a table set for more people than are currently living. These Stuffing Balls are one of those recipes. I make them the same way Mamma made them: herbed, dense in the center, a little crisp at the edges, the kind of thing that fills a house the way a voice does. Erik would eat four without saying a word about it, and that is exactly right.
Stuffing Balls
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 25 min | Total Time: 45 min | Servings: 12 balls
Ingredients
- 8 cups day-old white or sourdough bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes and dried
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
- 3 stalks celery, finely diced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 teaspoons dried sage
- 1 teaspoon dried thyme
- 1 teaspoon dried parsley
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 2 large eggs, beaten
- 1 1/4 cups low-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed
- 1 tablespoon olive oil, for pan
Instructions
- Heat the oven. Preheat oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet and set aside.
- Sauté the vegetables. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more. Remove from heat and stir in sage, thyme, parsley, salt, and pepper.
- Combine the stuffing. Place the dried bread cubes in a large bowl. Pour the sautéed vegetable mixture over the bread. Add the beaten eggs and pour the broth over everything. Toss gently to combine. The mixture should hold together when pressed — add broth a tablespoon at a time if it seems dry.
- Form the balls. Using your hands or a 1/3-cup scoop, form the mixture into compact balls roughly 2 inches in diameter. Place them on the prepared baking sheet, spaced about 1 inch apart. Press each ball lightly to help it hold its shape.
- Bake. Bake for 22–26 minutes, until the outsides are golden brown and the centers are set. Do not rush this — a slow even bake is what gives the center its density.
- Rest and serve. Let the stuffing balls rest on the pan for 5 minutes before serving. They hold together better once they have had a moment to settle.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 175 | Protein: 5g | Fat: 7g | Carbs: 22g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 370mg
About the cook who shared this
Linda Johansson
Week 395 of Linda’s 30-year story
· Duluth, Minnesota
Linda is a sixty-three-year-old retired nurse from Duluth, Minnesota, living alone in the house where she raised her children and said goodbye to her husband. She lost Paul to ALS in 2020 after two years of watching the kindest man she'd ever known lose everything but his dignity. She cooks Scandinavian comfort food and Minnesota hotdish and the pot roast Paul loved, and she sets two places at the table out of habit because it makes her feel less alone. Every recipe she writes is a person she's loved.