I went to Baker Saturday and MawMaw Shirley was sitting on the porch, which means she knew I was coming, because MawMaw Shirley only sits on the porch when she is waiting for someone, and she only waits for someone when she knows they are coming, which means the surprise was never a surprise and I should have known this because I have met MawMaw Shirley.
I showed her the grade report. She looked at it with the reading glasses she refuses to admit she needs and said, "Three point seven eight." I said, "Yes, ma'am." She said, "What happened to the other point zero two?" I laughed. She did not laugh, which means she was joking, because MawMaw Shirley's humor operates at a frequency that does not include laughter from the person delivering it. Then she said, "That's fine, baby. That's more than fine." She put the paper down and looked at me and said, "Your grandfather would be proud." She meant Grandpa Charles, who died before I was born, who was a carpenter and a deacon and a man who valued education the way he valued good wood: as the foundation of everything worth building. I carry his name in MawMaw Shirley's voice. That is where he lives.
We cooked all day. Not a meal — a feast. Gumbo, étouffée, rice dressing, sweet potato pie. She was teaching me everything at once, moving between pots with the efficiency of a woman who has managed this kitchen for fifty years and knows where every spoon is without looking. I followed her lead, writing nothing down because my hands were full, trusting my memory the way she trusts hers, the way the kitchen trusts us both.
We packed the food into containers and she drove with me to deliver it — not to our house, but to three other houses in Baker. Mrs. Johnson, who just had surgery. Mr. and Mrs. Thibodaux, whose son is in the hospital. Miss Cora, who is ninety-one and lives alone and whose refrigerator MawMaw Shirley checks every Saturday. This is what MawMaw Shirley does. She feeds people. Not for credit, not for thanks, not for any reason other than the oldest reason: people need to eat, and if you can cook, it is your job to make sure they do. I watched her deliver the food and I understood something I have been learning my whole life but had not fully grasped until that Saturday: the cooking is not the skill. The delivery is the skill. Knowing who needs it, and showing up, and handing it over without making it a production. That is the mastery. The roux is easy compared to that.
We made sweet potato pie that Saturday, and it was the sweet potato — humble, earthy, orange as Baker sunsets — that stayed with me longest after I drove home. MawMaw Shirley didn’t talk about ingredients like they were special; she talked about them like they were reliable, like old neighbors who always show up. These smoky sweet potato and black bean enchiladas carry that same spirit: filling food made for sharing, the kind of dish you double the batch on without thinking because someone, somewhere, is going to need a container left at their door.
Smoky Sweet Potato and Black Bean Enchiladas
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 40 min | Total Time: 1 hr | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 2 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch cubes
- 1 can (15 oz) black beans, drained and rinsed
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1 teaspoon cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- 1 cup frozen or fresh corn kernels
- 1/2 cup diced red onion
- 8 medium flour or corn tortillas
- 2 cups enchilada sauce (red or green), divided
- 1 1/2 cups shredded Monterey Jack or cheddar cheese, divided
- Fresh cilantro, sour cream, and sliced avocado for serving
Instructions
- Preheat oven. Heat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with foil and lightly grease a 9x13-inch baking dish.
- Roast the sweet potatoes. Toss diced sweet potatoes with olive oil, smoked paprika, cumin, chili powder, garlic powder, cayenne (if using), salt, and pepper. Spread in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet. Roast for 20–25 minutes, turning once, until tender and lightly caramelized at the edges.
- Make the filling. In a large bowl, combine roasted sweet potatoes, black beans, corn, and red onion. Stir in 1/2 cup of the enchilada sauce and 1/2 cup of the shredded cheese. Taste and adjust seasoning.
- Assemble the enchiladas. Spread 1/2 cup of enchilada sauce across the bottom of the baking dish. Spoon about 1/3 cup of filling down the center of each tortilla, roll tightly, and place seam-side down in the dish. Repeat with remaining tortillas and filling.
- Top and bake. Pour remaining enchilada sauce evenly over the rolled tortillas. Sprinkle the remaining 1 cup of cheese across the top. Cover with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Remove foil and bake an additional 10 minutes, until cheese is melted and bubbling.
- Rest and serve. Let the enchiladas rest for 5 minutes before serving. Top with fresh cilantro, sour cream, and sliced avocado as desired.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 420 | Protein: 16g | Fat: 14g | Carbs: 58g | Fiber: 10g | Sodium: 720mg