October arrived with the particular authority it has in this part of the world — abrupt, decisive, no ambiguity about whether fall is here. The maples along the back fence went from green to flame over the course of about four days and now drop leaves in the wind like something urgent is being communicated. I find October kitchens among the most satisfying of the year. The produce shifts in a direction that wants long cooking: root vegetables, dense squash, apples that are meant to be cider or pie rather than eaten out of hand.
I've been developing an apple butter for the channel — not the standard version but something with warming spices that I've been calibrating for weeks. The ratio of cinnamon to cardamom is a political question I'm taking seriously. Too much cardamom and it tastes like you're trying too hard. Too little and it's just cinnamon apple, which is fine but not distinctive. I made the fourth iteration this week and it's close. Gary has been eating it on toast every morning since the second batch and has stopped offering feedback, which either means it's perfect or he's been eating suboptimal apple butter for weeks. I'll ask when I'm done.
Mia is showing now — properly showing, that beautiful certainty of a belly that has committed to its purpose. She stopped by this week on her way home from an appointment and we sat at the kitchen table with tea while she told me the baby is healthy and vigorous, the word the doctor used, and that Clara has been putting her ear against Mia's stomach and making reports. Henry's approach to the situation is to be completely indifferent, which is very Henry. He has his own agenda and a sibling announcement does not disrupt it.
I'm also starting to think about Eleanor's first birthday, which is two weeks away. Eleanor at eleven months is a person of strong opinions and considerable mobility. She has opinions about what she is fed, what time things happen, and who is allowed to hold her in any given moment. I find this completely reasonable. She is developing her personality at speed and it is excellent.
The October kitchen smells like cider reduction and cardamom. The leaves fall past the window in the afternoon light. This is, genuinely, one of my favorite weeks of the year.
All the apple work this week — the iterations, the spice calibrations, the batches Gary has been quietly consuming without comment — put me in the mood to do something with apples that had a definitive ending, something I could slice and share rather than jar and wait. This rustic tart felt exactly right: the kind of thing you make on a Saturday afternoon when the leaves are coming down past the window and you want the kitchen to deliver something beautiful without requiring perfection. Mia came by later and we had a slice with tea, which felt like the ideal use of both the tart and the afternoon.
Rustic Apple Raspberry Tart
Prep Time: 25 minutes | Cook Time: 40 minutes | Total Time: 1 hour 5 minutes | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, plus 2 tablespoons for topping
- 1/4 teaspoon fine salt
- 1/2 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
- 3–4 tablespoons ice water
- 3 medium apples (such as Honeycrisp or Braeburn), peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
- 1 cup fresh or frozen raspberries
- 2 tablespoons brown sugar
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1 egg, beaten (for egg wash)
- 1 tablespoon turbinado sugar (for finishing)
Instructions
- Make the pastry. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, granulated sugar, and salt. Add cold butter cubes and work them in with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with some pea-sized pieces remaining. Drizzle in ice water one tablespoon at a time, mixing gently until the dough just holds together. Shape into a disk, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
- Prepare the filling. In a medium bowl, combine the sliced apples, raspberries, brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, cornstarch, and vanilla extract. Toss gently to coat and set aside.
- Preheat the oven. Heat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
- Roll the dough. On a lightly floured surface, roll the chilled dough into a rough 12-inch circle — it doesn’t need to be perfect. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet.
- Assemble the tart. Mound the apple-raspberry filling in the center of the dough, leaving a 2-inch border all around. Fold the edges of the dough up and over the outer edge of the filling, pleating as you go to form a rustic border.
- Finish and bake. Brush the folded pastry edges with the beaten egg and sprinkle with turbinado sugar. Bake for 35–40 minutes, until the crust is deep golden and the filling is bubbling. If the edges brown too quickly, tent loosely with foil.
- Cool before slicing. Let the tart rest on the baking sheet for at least 15 minutes before cutting. Serve warm or at room temperature, with whipped cream or a scoop of vanilla ice cream if you like.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 265 | Protein: 3g | Fat: 13g | Carbs: 36g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 95mg