Easter at Roberto and Elena's. The Maryvale backyard, the cinder block grill, the folding tables, the tradition that has outlasted a pandemic, a diabetes diagnosis, and thirty-five years of Arizona sun. Roberto grilled carne asada — slower than before, resting between flips, the cane leaning against the grill within reach. I smoked a ham (the Easter tradition I started in 2020, the pandemic Easter, when everything was wrong and the ham was the one thing that was right). Sofia grilled vegetables — a medley of zucchini, bell peppers, and onion, charred and dressed with the chile-lime vinaigrette she developed herself and which I have added to The Manual as "Sofia's Fire Vegetables" because the recipe deserves a name and the name deserves to be hers.
Diego helped Roberto at the cinder block grill. He is five and a half now, and his relationship with the grill has evolved from observer to participant. Roberto held his hands over Diego's, guiding the tongs, turning the carne asada with the slow, deliberate motion that has defined Roberto's grilling since 1988. Three generations at one grill. Alejandro taught Roberto. Roberto taught me. Roberto teaches Diego. The line bends but does not break. The fire passes through the hands.
After dinner, I told the extended family about the restaurant. The full announcement: the lease, the location, the build-out timeline, the March 2024 opening. The reaction was a wave — Elena cried (expected), Roberto stood up (unexpected — the man does not stand for announcements), Miguel cheered, the neighbors applauded, and Sofia said, "Finally," as if she had been waiting for me to catch up to her expectations. Diego said, "Will there be a play kitchen?" No, Diego. But there will be a real kitchen. And someday, you will cook in it.
Roberto's toast (with water, because Roberto toasts with water now): "To my son, who stood next to me at this grill when he was three years old and who is now building his own. To Rivera's. To the fire." He raised his glass. The family raised theirs. The sun set over Maryvale. The cinder block grill cooled. And somewhere in Mesa, a building waited for smoke.
Sofia’s vegetables deserved a name before the plates were even cleared — the char on those bell peppers, the way the zucchini held the heat, the chile-lime vinaigrette she developed herself that cut through everything with exactly the right amount of fire. I added her recipe to The Manual that same night, and this quick calico salad is the version of it I can share here: a colorful medley of grilled vegetables tossed in a bright, punchy dressing that belongs at any table where the grill is still warm and the family is still talking.
Quick Calico Salad
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 12 min | Total Time: 27 min | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 2 medium zucchini, sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch planks
- 2 large bell peppers (1 red, 1 yellow), quartered and seeded
- 1 large red onion, cut into 1/2-inch rounds
- 1 cup canned black beans, drained and rinsed
- 1 cup frozen or fresh corn kernels
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- Chile-Lime Vinaigrette:
- 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (about 2 limes)
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 teaspoon honey
- 1/2 teaspoon ground ancho chile powder
- 1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder
- 1 small clove garlic, minced
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
Instructions
- Heat the grill. Preheat a gas or charcoal grill to medium-high heat (about 400°F). Clean and oil the grates well.
- Prep the vegetables. Brush the zucchini planks, bell pepper quarters, and onion rounds on both sides with olive oil. Season evenly with salt and pepper.
- Grill in batches. Grill the vegetables directly over the heat, turning once, until char marks form and the vegetables are just tender — about 4 to 5 minutes per side for the peppers and onion, and 3 to 4 minutes per side for the zucchini. Do not crowd the grates.
- Char the corn. If using fresh corn kernels, toss them in a small cast-iron skillet over the grill for 3 to 4 minutes until lightly charred. If using frozen, thaw first and pat dry before charring.
- Make the vinaigrette. While the vegetables rest, whisk together the lime juice, olive oil, honey, ancho chile powder, chipotle powder, garlic, and salt in a small bowl until emulsified.
- Chop and combine. Cut the grilled zucchini, peppers, and onion into rough 1-inch pieces. Add to a large bowl with the black beans and charred corn.
- Dress and toss. Pour the chile-lime vinaigrette over the warm vegetables and toss gently to coat. Taste and adjust salt or lime juice as needed.
- Finish and serve. Transfer to a serving platter and scatter fresh cilantro over the top. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 165 | Protein: 5g | Fat: 8g | Carbs: 21g | Fiber: 5g | Sodium: 280mg