Pumpkin Pudding — The Season That Fits Like a Good Boot

Fall is here. The season I understand best — the season of putting things away, of pulling close, of braised and slow and dark food. I am a fall cook in a fall body in a fall life, and the season fits like a good boot — worn in, shaped to the foot.

Made pot roast Monday. Chuck roast seared in the Dutch oven, then onions and carrots and potatoes and garlic and beef stock and red wine and thyme, 300 for three and a half hours. The house smelled like a Sunday in October even though it was Monday and nothing about the day was special except the pot roast, which made it special.

Connie and I talked about Amber's wedding. She's making lists and having opinions about flowers and venues. I have no opinions about weddings except: is there food. She said I need a new suit. I said I have a suit from 2003. She said it doesn't fit and has shoulder pads. I said shoulder pads are making a comeback. She said Craig. I said fine. New suit.

Earl Thomas is six months, eating solid food — jarred baby food, which I consider a temporary situation I will remedy by making real food the moment he can handle a spoon. Connie says I'm being dramatic. I said I'm being a grandfather. She said same thing.

The pot roast took care of dinner, but fall doesn’t quit at dinner — not in this house. After Connie and I finished talking about suits and weddings and whether shoulder pads are actually making a comeback (they are), I pulled out the pumpkin and made pudding, because if you’re already committed to October on a Monday, you may as well go all the way. This is the dessert I make when the season is doing what I need it to do: simple, warm, no argument.

Pumpkin Pudding

Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 45 minutes | Total Time: 55 minutes | Servings: 6

Ingredients

• 1 can (15 oz) pure pumpkin puree
• 2 large eggs
• 3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons cornstarch
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1/4 teaspoon fine salt
• Whipped cream, for serving (optional)

Instructions

1. Preheat. Heat your oven to 325°F. Set six 6-ounce ramekins in a large baking dish and bring a kettle of water to a boil.
2. Mix the base. In a large bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, eggs, and brown sugar until smooth and fully combined.
3. Add dairy and spices. Whisk in the whole milk, heavy cream, cornstarch, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, and salt. Mix until the batter is uniform and no lumps remain.
4. Fill the ramekins. Divide the mixture evenly among the six ramekins, filling each about three-quarters full.
5. Water bath. Pour the boiling water into the baking dish until it reaches halfway up the sides of the ramekins. This keeps the pudding silky and prevents cracking.
6. Bake. Bake for 40–45 minutes, until the pudding is just set at the edges but still has a slight wobble at the center. A toothpick inserted 1 inch from the edge should come out clean.
7. Cool. Carefully remove the ramekins from the water bath and set on a wire rack to cool to room temperature. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving, or overnight.
8. Serve. Top with a dollop of whipped cream if you like. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 210 | Protein: 5g | Fat: 9g | Carbs: 29g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 145mg