A quiet week, which is what I needed. The Box Three shipment is out. The SoDo kitchen is clean. The waitlist is building for Box Four. I have three weeks before the next planning cycle begins, and I am using them to breathe, which is a thing I forget to do and then remember with the sudden urgency of someone surfacing from deep water.
I turned the breathing into cooking. Monday I made japchae — the sweet potato noodles with vegetables that Jisoo taught me on my second trip to Busan. It is a dish that requires attention but not intensity: the noodles must be cooked separately, the vegetables stir-fried individually, everything brought together at the end with soy sauce and sesame oil and a gentle hand. It is meditative. It is the opposite of a sprint review. I made a double batch and brought half to David and Karen on Tuesday.
Karen ate the japchae with chopsticks. Her hands shook. She dropped one piece of pepper on her lap. She picked it up and ate it off her pants. David said, "Karen." Karen said, "David. It was on my pants for three seconds." I laughed. Karen laughed. The japchae was good. The moment was better.
I have been thinking about what kind of mother I want to be, and the thinking has led me to a surprising place: I want to be a mother who cooks. This sounds obvious — I am a person who has built her entire identity around food. But what I mean is something more specific. I want to be the mother whose kitchen smells like something when her child walks through the door. I want to be the mother who teaches her child to use chopsticks and also a fork. I want to be the mother who makes Korean food and American food and doesn't treat either one as the lesser cuisine. I want to be the mother Karen was — present, consistent, warm — with the addition of the Korean culture that Karen couldn't give me. I want to be Karen plus Jisoo. I want to give my child both grandmothers in every meal.
Dr. Yoon and I talked about this on Monday. She said, "You are describing a very ambitious parenting philosophy." I said, "I am an ambitious person." She said, "Yes. But children do not care about philosophy. Children care about whether you are present and whether the food tastes good." I said, "I can do both." She said, "I know." She smiled. Dr. Yoon does not smile often in session. When she does, it means she thinks I'm getting somewhere.
James's parents, Ming and Wei, are visiting next weekend from San Jose. Ming has already sent three texts about what she plans to cook in our kitchen. She is bringing Taiwanese sausage from a specific shop in San Jose that she insists is the best in America. James said, "My mother believes that everything from her specific neighborhood in San Jose is the best in America." I said, "Is she wrong?" He thought about it. He said, "About the sausage, no."
The recipe this week is japchae, because it is the dish I made on a quiet Monday when the world was not asking anything of me and I could cook the way cooking was meant to be: slowly, with attention, with love. Sweet potato glass noodles, cooked and cut with scissors. Spinach, blanched. Carrots, julienned and sautéed. Mushrooms, sliced and sautéed. Onion, thinly sliced and sautéed. Bell pepper, julienned and sautéed. Each vegetable cooked separately — this is the rule Jisoo taught me, and it is non-negotiable, because each vegetable deserves its own attention, its own seasoning, its own moment in the pan. Toss everything together with soy sauce, sesame oil, a pinch of sugar. Eat at room temperature. This is a dish for celebration and also for ordinary Mondays. The best dishes are both.
Japchae is the dish I made that Monday, but fried rice is the dish I grew up eating — the one Karen made on Tuesday nights when dinner had to happen fast and love still had to be in it. Ginger Steak Fried Rice sits right at that intersection I keep describing to Dr. Yoon: the Korean pantry flavors I learned from Jisoo, the weeknight practicality I learned from Karen. It is the kind of dish that rewards attention without demanding urgency — and after a week of breathing slowly back into myself, that felt exactly right.
Ginger Steak Fried Rice
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 35 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 1 lb flank steak, thinly sliced against the grain
- 3 cups cooked long-grain white rice, day-old preferred
- 3 tablespoons soy sauce, divided
- 1 tablespoon sesame oil, plus more for finishing
- 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely grated
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 tablespoons neutral oil (vegetable or avocado), divided
- 3 large eggs, lightly beaten
- 1 cup frozen peas, thawed
- 3 green onions, thinly sliced
- 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon white pepper
- Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish
Instructions
- Marinate the steak. In a bowl, combine the sliced flank steak with 1 tablespoon soy sauce, the sesame oil, grated ginger, and half the minced garlic. Toss well and let sit for at least 15 minutes while you prepare the other ingredients.
- Break up the rice. If using refrigerated day-old rice, use your hands or a fork to separate any clumps before cooking. This ensures even frying and prevents steaming.
- Cook the steak. Heat 1 tablespoon neutral oil in a large wok or heavy skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add the marinated steak in a single layer and sear undisturbed for 60–90 seconds, then stir-fry for another minute until just cooked through. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
- Scramble the eggs. Reduce heat to medium-high. Add a small drizzle of oil if the pan is dry. Pour in the beaten eggs and cook, stirring gently, until just set but still slightly glossy. Push to the side of the pan or remove to the plate with the steak.
- Fry the rice. Add the remaining tablespoon of neutral oil to the pan and raise heat to high. Add the remaining garlic and stir-fry for 20 seconds until fragrant. Add the rice, pressing it into the pan in an even layer. Let it sit untouched for 1–2 minutes to develop a light crust, then toss and repeat once more.
- Season and combine. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce, the oyster sauce, sugar, and white pepper to the rice. Stir to coat evenly. Add the peas and toss to heat through, about 1 minute.
- Bring it together. Return the steak and eggs to the pan. Fold everything together gently over medium heat until just combined and warmed through. Taste and adjust seasoning.
- Finish and serve. Remove from heat. Drizzle with a small amount of sesame oil and toss once more. Serve in bowls topped with sliced green onions and a scattering of toasted sesame seeds. Best eaten immediately, though it keeps well for two days.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 460 | Protein: 33g | Fat: 15g | Carbs: 47g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 710mg