Valentine's Day. Our last Valentine's Day as an engaged couple. Next year we'll be married. I made dinner — not the Polish tasting menu from last year (though Megan requested it; I said it was a one-time masterpiece and she cannot be greedy). Instead: lobster tails, roasted potatoes, Caesar salad, and a chocolate soufflé that took three practice attempts to get right.
The soufflé was worth the practice. It rose perfectly — golden, trembling, impossibly delicate. I brought it to the table and Megan watched it and said, "It's alive." I said, "Eat it before it deflates." She ate it. It deflated. It was incredible. Some foods are worth the effort. Some foods are worth the failure. Soufflé is worth both.
She gave me a watch. Not expensive, but engraved on the back: "It's always time. - M." Referring to the nachos. Referring to the moment. Referring to everything. I will wear this watch at the wedding. I will wear this watch every day.
I gave her a framed photo of the Hoan Bridge at sunset — the exact view from the spot where I proposed. She looked at it and tears came and she said, "You're terrible." She was crying. She meant wonderful. In Megan-speak, "terrible" while crying means "you have destroyed me with tenderness and I will never recover." I take it as a compliment.
Four months to the wedding. The pierogi army convenes in three months for practice. Mrs. Wojcik sent me a handwritten letter that said, "I will be there. Bring good flour." Mrs. Wojcik does not email. Mrs. Wojcik sends handwritten letters. She is ninety-two. She is coming to make pierogi for my wedding. Babcia would be so happy. So happy.
The soufflé was the star of the night, but it taught me something I’ll carry into every special dinner going forward: chocolate and effort belong together. If you don’t have three practice rounds in you, this Chocolate Hazelnut Torte is the recipe I’d reach for next — it has that same dense, occasion-worthy richness without the countdown anxiety. Make it the night before, let it set, and bring it to the table like you’ve known all along it would be perfect.
Chocolate Hazelnut Torte
Prep Time: 25 min | Cook Time: 35 min | Total Time: 1 hr (plus cooling) | Servings: 10
Ingredients
- 1 cup (about 5 oz) hazelnuts, toasted and skins removed
- 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 8 oz bittersweet chocolate (70% cacao), coarsely chopped
- 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
- 1 cup granulated sugar, divided
- 5 large eggs, separated, room temperature
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- Powdered sugar or unsweetened cocoa powder, for dusting
- Lightly sweetened whipped cream, for serving (optional)
Instructions
- Prepare the pan. Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Grease a 9-inch springform pan, line the bottom with parchment paper, and grease the parchment. Set aside.
- Process the hazelnuts. In a food processor, pulse the toasted hazelnuts with the flour and salt until the nuts are finely ground but not paste-like. Set aside.
- Melt the chocolate. Combine the chopped chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water. Stir until fully melted and smooth. Remove from heat and let cool slightly, about 5 minutes.
- Mix in yolks and vanilla. Whisk 3/4 cup of the granulated sugar into the chocolate mixture until combined. Add the egg yolks one at a time, whisking after each addition. Stir in the vanilla extract. Fold in the hazelnut-flour mixture until just incorporated.
- Whip the egg whites. In a clean large bowl, beat the egg whites with a hand mixer on medium speed until foamy. Gradually add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar and beat on high until stiff, glossy peaks form, 3–4 minutes.
- Fold and combine. Gently fold one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate batter to lighten it. Then fold in the remaining whites in two additions, working carefully to preserve the volume.
- Bake. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake until the top is set and a toothpick inserted 2 inches from the edge comes out with moist crumbs (the center may look slightly underdone), 32–36 minutes.
- Cool completely. Transfer to a wire rack and let the torte cool in the pan for 20 minutes. Run a thin knife around the edge, then release the springform ring. Let cool fully before slicing, at least 1 hour. The torte will sink slightly in the center — this is expected.
- Serve. Dust with powdered sugar or cocoa powder just before serving. Slice with a warm knife and serve with whipped cream if desired.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 430 | Protein: 7g | Fat: 31g | Carbs: 34g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 95mg