December, and the kitchen becomes the center of the house in a way it isn't quite the rest of the year. The cold pushes everything inward. I spend more time at the stove, longer simmers, the kind of cooking that's also a form of heating the house. Tommy is here for two weeks while Kai and Sarah visit family in Vermont and the rhythm of the days becomes his rhythm, which is early and enthusiastic and full of questions.
He asks why constantly, the pure toddler-philosopher version that genuinely wants the answer and will follow it through several layers. Why are the beans soaking? Because they need to be soft. Why do they need to be soft? Because your teeth can't break them dry. Why can't my teeth break them dry? I showed him. He tried to bite a dried bean with visible effort and then handed it back to me and said "okay." That was enough. He moved on to the next question.
His vocabulary for food is remarkable for three — not just the names of things but the states of things, the distinctions. He knows the difference between simmering and boiling, can identify dried versus fresh by sight and smell, uses "ready" and "almost ready" with reasonable accuracy. He's been watching these things since before he could talk and the observations have been accumulating. I think about all the knowledge that goes in before the language comes, the long quiet period of watching that builds the understanding the words will later organize.
I made pozole for Christmas dinner, a big pot that fed eight of us around the table, and Tommy ate three bowls and then fell asleep on the couch with his hand still curled around a piece of cornbread. Kai photographed it without waking him. Some things need to be documented.
The pozole that Christmas was really just an expression of what December asks of me in the kitchen — long, patient cooking, the kind where the smell builds for hours and the whole house becomes the meal before anyone sits down. Carnitas lives in that same spirit: pork braised low and slow with chipotles until it’s falling apart and smoky and deeply, warmly itself. Tommy’s enthusiasm for anything that starts with dried beans and ends with a bowl he can hold with both hands told me everything I needed to know about what belongs on a winter table.
Chipotle Carnitas
Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 3 hours 30 minutes | Total Time: 3 hours 45 minutes | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 3 – 4 lbs boneless pork shoulder, cut into 3-inch chunks
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 medium white onion, roughly chopped
- 6 cloves garlic, smashed
- 2 – 3 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, plus 2 tablespoons of the sauce
- 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
- Juice of 2 oranges (about 1/2 cup)
- Juice of 1 lime
- 2 bay leaves
Instructions
- Season the pork. Pat pork chunks dry with paper towels. In a small bowl, combine salt, pepper, cumin, smoked paprika, and oregano. Rub the spice mixture evenly over all sides of the pork.
- Sear for color. Heat vegetable oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Working in batches to avoid crowding, sear pork on all sides until deeply browned, about 3 – 4 minutes per side. Transfer seared pieces to a plate and set aside.
- Build the braise. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly golden, about 4 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute more. Stir in the chipotle peppers, adobo sauce, chicken broth, orange juice, and lime juice, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot.
- Braise low and slow. Return the seared pork and any accumulated juices to the pot. Nestle in the bay leaves. Bring liquid to a gentle simmer, then cover and reduce heat to low. Cook for 3 to 3 1/2 hours, turning the pork once halfway through, until the meat is completely tender and falling apart.
- Shred and crisp. Remove bay leaves. Transfer pork to a cutting board and shred with two forks, discarding any large pieces of fat. For crispy carnitas, spread shredded pork in a single layer on a foil-lined baking sheet, spoon over a few tablespoons of the braising liquid, and broil on high for 5 – 7 minutes until edges are crispy and caramelized.
- Serve. Serve with warm tortillas, rice, or alongside a pot of beans and cornbread. Spoon extra braising liquid over the top for added richness.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 340 | Protein: 34g | Fat: 18g | Carbs: 6g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 520mg